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Because the engineering was already completed for the front system separately and the engineering timeline to devolp a single stand alone system made it impossible in the first iteration. Once that controls operation was established it was not advisable to have similar trucks with different ops...

Yeah that's what I meant. My terminology was off.

The filters have "o" rings. Just be gentle. But if you don't have replacements with you, tread lightly until you have tried other things first.

Hey! We both tried one of them nasties!

First of all, Santa Cruz is probably one of my favorite places on Earth, spent three weeks there a while back......very jealous! Anyways, the in tank pump has no purpose at all in a primed operating system. So, if you have enough fuel, you could run without it forever assuming you don't lose...

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?124837-New-blinker-buzzer-for-military-most-vehicles&highlight= This is the ad for TMG LEO was referring to

Doesn't sound like you have good flat surfaces.

Thanks for the mention but they are all sold right now.

Yes, yes you did......

I have primed other engines by turning off the fuel supply and cranking. It usually doesn't take long for a little pressure to show.

I have met Doghead in person and he is much nicer on the inter web than he is in person.

No. If the external testing (compression, blow-by, knocking) etc are fine there is no reason at all to tear into the engine. Now if its its leaking, excessive blow-by etc then a rebuild would be in order. re torqueing can ONLY be done correctly b y first loosening every fastener and then...

It's good to have good insurance.

And this is what I got in my fortune cookie today on the way home.

I really shouldn't be allowed to operate these things.

Here is what everyone is missing. The engines do not warm up quickly or well in cooler weather. A front cover is absolutely necessary to bring temps up, doesn't matter how many BTUs your new heater has available, when the BTUs are going out the front rad, you don't get it in the cab.

Jerry I have one that goes to 600 right and left

Check the ground point for the ABS/PCB under the hood. The system is grounded through the stud and spacers, some of which I have seen had paint on three mating surfaces, forcing the ground to float. Look at the PCB and you will see the grounds. Pull and clean.scrape all the four surfaces.

WM what do you have left?

I just noticed that PATracey AGAIN evaded photography......