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I run 315/75/16 tires on 8” wide rims at 35 psi on road and 15psi off-road. I have no issues.

I’d rather go down in front than up in the rear on mine. I’ve got about 1/2” clearance for my garage as is.

My tuff country HD springs haven’t really settled much. I’ve been thinking about pulling the extra leaf out for a while now to bring it down.

Looks good. Hopefully the front settles a bit but if it doesn’t I’d suggest a longer rear shackle to bring it up a bit. I’m unsure if ORD makes longer rears but I got mine at diy4x

Why did you decide to not include a rear seat? I’ve seen plenty of rock crawlers/buggies/off-roaders with cages that have room for a rear seat and passengers.

I chased an oil leak for a while. Ended up being a rear main and pan combo. Also replaced the front crank seal and tomingcover while I had it apart. Mine showed mostly on the starter and out of the inspection cover hole for the trans.

The winch isnt isn’t the big and bulky part, it’s the giant plate dangling off the front end. There are much cleaner, more solidly mounted and more permanent solutions than this, hence why I asked.

Is this meant for farm use or off-road use? Seems quick and easy for farm use but big and bulky for any sort of off-roading.

There are a few companies who make pre bent kits. Diy4x has a starter kit. Merricks garage did a vid on his https://youtu.be/5EiIb3HVpYA There’s also this company. http://all4funoffroad-com.3dcartstores.com/1967-1996-Chevy-Blazer--6-Point-Roll-Cage-with-Front-Cage-Kit-BL4_p_32.html

I thought you were going for an anti theft device. I use soft shackles. Easy to pack and wrap around lots more things than other D rings. I’ve also heard the stock mounts bend when pulled at an angle and the stock shackles can also open up with a side pull.

I think the cotter pins are harder to remove than those locks off the lime green ones. Small locks can be busted off with a pry bar and cut like butter with bolt cutters. Meanwhile those darn cotter pins take forever to get out of the hole.

Lug centric is fine. There are oem vehicles with lug centric wheels. I use hub centric rings on my Buick but only to aid in install because of the deep lug holes. I’d just clean up and paint the stock wheels myself though.

The “top” braces are interchangeable so I could just order another “rear” one. The lever comes off and I think it’s just an Allen key in there. Really I’m not too worried. It’s all rocks here with little mud and I have yet to hit anything. I hit my rear diff mostly.

Maybe 2-2.5”? I did have thoughts of replacing the brace with the name on it with another like the rear. Hasn’t been an issue yet and I’ve been up and over a few ledges on trail. It may be able to be mounted right side up but not sure about core support clearance. The top of the bumper would for...

If you have any specific questions feel free to ask. I can attempt to take some pics but it’s all back together now. The pics I posted are the only ones I have from when I did it.

I have mine in my bumper. It’s not hard. I used a winch plate from harbor freight and it’s mounted up side down to the the underside of the top of the frame rails. There are two holes that line up and you’ll have to drill 2 more. You’ll have to trim down the sides of the winch plate a bit. I...

I’ve read of guys doing basically that plus red lock tight. Otherwise they do make shim kits with washers that replace the crush sleeve (at least for 12 bolts they do). Takes forever to set up but once done you can torque it down without issue of crushing the sleeve anymore. Theoretically you...

Swapped out my old bosch plugs for some Ac delco 60g's and she starts up like new! Also wasn't too bad swapping them on the turbo side.

That sure is a pretty truck!

I just took some of these out and swapped to the 60's. They've been in there for 6 years or so and weren't up to the task anymore. I haven't tested them yet but I can say my truck starts like it should again. Also had zero swelling.