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Is this addressed to me? If so I can run down my suspension setup with you. Front: tuff country HD 2” lift springs up front with stock length shackles. Rear: Zero lift shackles flip by TNA and 7” long shackles in back. Tires/wheels: 16x8 with 4.5” backspacing and 315/75/16 bfg ko2’s which are...

If it’s original you just heat it up until the plastic melts out and then press/hammer it out. Otherwise if it’s been replaced there will be clips on the inside that need to be removed.

I have a 2” spring lift up front and a Dana 60 and did nothing to my driveshaft up front. My rear I had a 1350 double cardan shaft made so unsure on the stock shaft length working. Didn’t make sense to keep the 1310 u joints and use a conversion to me.

I haven’t had my sway bar connected for the last two years. I’ve never had death wobble and honestly don’t even notice any more lean in a turn. sounds like you got a lot done though.

Wait, where’d your seat go?

Did you get the regular or HD springs?

Yes winter seems to of brought out all of the gremlins, more so to this thread.

I see a lot of people did a lot of transmission arguing to their cucv’s this Week......seems incredibly on topic.

Same one I have and have used a dozen times. Couple it with a decent impact and it’ll make quick work of removing and installing a trans. Held my th400/np208 just fine.

315/75/16 ko2’s on my m1009 and 265/75/16 ko2’s on my Sierra. I always look for severe snow rating because of location and frequent trips to the mountains and I’ve never had any complaints. Grip great on ice, snow, mud, rocks, wet rocks etc. no cuts anywhere from off-roading in either vehicle...

Many years ago I wrestled a th400 out of my old Pontiac on a regular jack with some 2x4’s and plywood as a makeshift trans jack. I then spent hours attempting to put it back in with the same setup. I threw in the towel and bought a trans jack from harbor freight and got the trans bolted back in...

They have urethane bushings in the mounts. They’re in the pictures in the link you posted.

I’ve got one for you bud. PM me

I have a 6.5 turbo setup and its by no means a high rpm high horsepower setup. It makes boost right off idle and can be mainly felt down low. Cruising at 45mph it’s making 4-5psi.

I know you’ve already cut things off but I just tapped those clamps all the way out and my plate fit just fine.

If the angles match then they’ll be fine. Literally thousands of trucks are on the road with a 4” lift (or so the internet would have you believe). I have no idea why you’ve had such a difficult time considering you bought a kit. Ridiculous.

Why spend the money to half assed lengthen your driveshaft? Just make it the correct length with the T-case in the stock location.

Bummer on the d60. I wouldn’t bother on the rear unless you need it for a project

http://www.crawlpedia.com/dana_60_bom.htm this might help

How does that work when you’re in a store or drove a different vehicle and left your cucv home?