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Drop the pan and look up the belly. Look at the skirts that are below the liner, (bdc), and look at the liner on the ones that are at the top of the stroke. Look for coolant between the p&l.

Unless you have been idling it or not taking it out and running it hard. The multi likes to be run hard and hates idle time.

Diesel does not have "rich" or "lean"

I did a quick look for rust. The one in the field is pretty clean, small amt of rust pits, no big cancer spots that I saw. The one in the first set of pics up under the tree is a rust bucket. The upper part of the hull is rusted out, that's why it looks like it is leaning. All the suspension is...

I saw that forum whilst searching for info on them....not too much info, but a good starting place. Still looking for info on them, the Museum might have some TMs in the library that I can browse through

Another plus is that the Museum has one and it is sans track, so, parts from the rusted out one can be used to make that one a runner :beer: Maybe make 2 runners out of these two.

A couple more pics...

Last week I took a little vacation up north to visit some family. While I was there, a lady at a farm about a mile up the road called and had a water leak and asked if we could look at it. Turned out to be an issue with the supply pipe from the wellhead to the manifold, lots of digging involved...

I have found that some of the gaskets don't fit because they are dried up. If you soak them in hot water they will be restored to their original size and be pliable again.

I don't recall seeing a part that in a long airpack, I have only repaired/rebuilt a few of 'em. Maybe someone more experienced will chime in

Most of the time a prybar is the only way to dislodge one. He did what is needed. TM's don't work on the pigs.

A failed w/p will make the temp climb immediately, cold lower hose and a hot upper hose at the stat hsg and a cool radiator at the inlet...the temp will get cooler at the top hose the closer to the radiator. Sounds like a stuck open stat. There is a seal in the stat housing, you should do that...

Do not remove the stat. Diesel is not like a car, two cooling loops. when the stat opens it closes off the block loop and opens the radiator/cooling loop. if the stat is not there the coolant will follow the path of least resistance, which is the block loop. If when the engine is overheating...

Bosch inline pumps are indeed self priming. Rotary, not so much.

No update on the fillister head screws for the jumpers, they were the same 'till the N14 stopped production in '02. A long #3 flat head screwdriver works well.Use one with a bolster, works better. PM me for info on the manual, I think I might have one.

Prevent what? A tune up? No, you will still need to re set the overhead. The boxes will bolt right up to the NHC, overhead set is the same as described in the sticky. As for the cam, they are the same for both as are the injectors. When you turbo an NHC, you should change the timing to CPL 026T...

Look in the 5t up manual section. There is a parts manual there that you can get the correct O-rings and shut off from Cummins.

By actuator, you mean the solenoid in the center of the housing? if so, they aren't meant to be disassembled. They are removed from the jake housing from the top side by removing the little hold down.There are no factory settings on them. The only adjustable part is where the mechanic sets the...

Heads won't matter, they are the same. To put the 350 injectors in the 250, you need to find out if the cams are the same, the cam is another one of those CPL or performance parts. As for the jakes...turns out? What mean that? They are set with a feeler gauge to .018. You do realize that you...

^^This. It WILL fit, exact same bolt pattern and dimensions, but it won't work very well.