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The dowel I am referring to is the one that goes in the shaft of the shift down VCV.
I started to notice a few of the pumps I get back from rebuilding have the dowel pin missing for the VCV module. Do NOT remove that dowel pin from the drive flange. Looks like you nailed this job. Good Deal...
Today I started out with great speed and here I am at the end of the day tired but feeling accomplished. I have the transfer case back and the entire driveline is assembled again. I just found out today i can no longer lift the transfer cases in place by myself. I felt a bit sad at first but...
You can get it down to a 1/4 tank by connecting into the auxiliary tap on the sending unit. If you start a siphon from that point it will draw it down to 1/4 full. But other then that I just block the tank and carefully remove the skid plate on the M1009 and the bracket bolts on the truck...
Since you are using that old Injection pump as a core I wouldn't worry about it. But if you want take a punch or chisel and make a mark. You are going along nicely. Now get them 3 M8 bolts out of the oil fill hole. No worries about the gear and timing. The gear can not move in the teeth. there...
WOW what an accomplishment. I was able to beat the heat and have all the grass mowed, trimmed and all the equipment in top running order for now. And all before 11AM. Now I am going to get the transfer case and complete the transmission and transfer case install on the M1009. I will post...
That looks good. I put a VDO tachometer in my M1009 at the same spot. I also split the cluster cover and added gauges to the lower radio cover. I done that on a few of these before most people wanted just plain stock vehicles. That M1009 I drove till it had 135K on it and sold it.
OK. After you have the fuel injection system removed from the engine bay. I would clamp the flange ear in a vise and mark all the injection lines. Top in a circle 1 -8 or clock face numbers. They are 5/8 / 16MM nuts. Very tight tap them loose and they should spin right off. I think you know the...
Well fixing the brakes was very easy. I replaced the axle brake tubing with the nickel copper brake lines and bled the rear brakes. I bought a QT of DOT 5 fluid. It was $25. Ouch. But that was what I needed and I bought it. Fixed the problem. After looking at the oil change it has not gone over...
You need to find it. You are asking about a part that is steel floating inside of an engine with gears and chains. I think something happened here before like the bolts on the injection pump gear were loose. I had batteries drop right out on the road when the right inner fender gave way and it...
Oh I forgot the nozzle nuts at the delivery end of the lines are 19MM/3/4" use a line wrench to break loose and an open from that point after. I have had a few stubborn ones I needed to hold the nozzle with a 30MM open end. Only a few over the years.
You look like you are doing great so far. Lets remove the entire fuel pump and fuel injection lines all at once. Take a 7MM and remove the 4 clamp screws 2 on each side above the rocker covers. Next remove the 2 M8 13MM nuts that hold the oil fill neck to the timing cover. Remove the grommet...
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You need...
WOW times have changed. Back in the mid 90's I sold every TH400 I could get and people were throwing the 700R on the core pile. The TH400 is one of the toughest transmissions out there. When they added the OD to the mix that was always an issue. Maybe just changing from the 4:56 gears to some...
If I remember correctly the M1010 has a special lower radiator hose. That hose may no longer be available for the M1010. But you could fabricate a shield very easy. Good Luck.
Another thought. Send me a 2 way airplane ticket and I will fly out and change the pump. I can bring my own tools. It would be less then 1/2 of that $1800. quote. Good Luck. Let me know when you want to begin. Get your tool box ready.
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