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If it were me I would change the pump and go from there. The delivery nozzles were bad only a few times and only one or 2 on the same truck. I had them checked on occasion with a pop off tool and they sprayed fine. I would change the injection pump and try it from there. No use throwing money...

I have used a few of these and a few VDO 24 volt voltmeters. You need one that is not self grounding. You can use the stock pigtail from the back of the stock voltmeter and have a direct fit and the hole is 2 1/16" just like stock. Good Luck.

If it were me doing the job I would cut the A pillar off and the B pillar and replace the entire roof assembly. You can make a few jigs with yard sticks or something to get everything back in square and aligned. It will need a good welder guy and you could slip a few pieces of 1/4" flat bar down...

No special tools needed. Fear not. I will walk you thru that and you will be amazed at how simple it is. Let me know when you are ready to begin. Get a nice level shaded place and put a sheet of wood or cardboard under the truck. If you are on the grass it helps so if parts fall such as nuts and...

I kept one of these folded up in my CUCV. Works great and has many uses.

That is a very nice original patina truck. Love seeing them. Most have been hacked up lifted and trashed by this time. Great looking truck. Also good to spend time with parents. It is priceless. Thank you for sharing.

No these were rusted thru. And the more I twisted the more they broke. I think the nickel coppers will work great. They are weaker but that is a toss up between rust and strength. https://brakesystems.autopartsu.com/2020/08/24/nickel-copper-pros-and-cons/ But if the 1979 had the OEM lines 42...

Mr. Rusty M1028 is back in for it's annual use and abuse check up. The owner said the rear brakes were spongy and he has been adding DOT5 fluid to the small reservoir of the master cylinder. I discovered a slight leak at the clamp on the axle tubing where the 3/16" brake tube was rusted thru...

Do it yourself. If you have a level area to work and can take your time everything you listed is fairly easy. No need to drop the transmission to swap the flex-plate. Easy as can be. If you have basic tools and slight mechanical knowledge I am sure you can be talked thru from a far. Report back...

Anyone know this guy? He has some nice old old military vehicles. Always shows them in correct time period. Very nice. I would like to have another GPW someday. Maybe. Then again Maybe not. But I walked by this Jeep and I couldn't smell it running. That is the ones I like. No smoke from the...

Quick thought. Try and find the pawl and save the clutch if at all possible. Them OEM clutch parts are hard to come by. Most reproductions are thin uncentered and really don't last vey long. Good Luck.

Common break. I would take the new crank or driver apart and put real grease in the hole. I would use oil and grease on all the sash guide wells and the gears of the regulator. The side track runs need replaced if they are bunched up, wadded, or missing. Lots of times the lower sash guides are...

In this case I would crawl into the rear cargo area with the tools and remove the access panel. From that point you can get in there and remove the 4 - 1/4" bolts that hold the bottom sash to the roller guides. Tight area to work in but it can be done. Also if the window is up you have full...

Parting shots of todays progress. New transmission mounts. And the newly installed Energy Suspension motor mounts. That ends another day of production. I finished my Honda tractor in the rain and that was a Great big mess to deal with. Runs like new again. The glued in bearings worked well. I...

Today with the cold and rain I worked inside the barn. I have lots of outside work but the unseasonal weather had me inside. I made some progress. I replaced the transmission mounts and the motor mounts with the Energy Suspension set. The motor mounts just give you the insert and you must...

Read your last post that you didn't need the bolts anymore. Fair enough. You may end up taking the oil pan off to find that dowel pin. But it needs to be found. I don't think the gears or chains will do well with that piece floating around in there. Seems strange that it ran this long. Good Luck.

That rear floor rail is replaceable/repairable. That is a lot of work. It is fairly easy work. I replaced 1 in an M1009 that was my own. It was poorly supported and the rear gate was sagging. I used a lot of 12 gauge galvaneal and formed it. That was back in 2009 and I never had the same issue...

You have nothing to gain by reconverting it to 24 volt. IMHO. I would sail with what you have and do whatever splices. repairs and heat shrinks are needed to get everything operational. Do you have the 2 B/O lamp switches? If you do you are still good to go on the B/O lights. Most times the B/O...

After reviewing all the information, pictures and holding off an assault of my offer and experience. I think if I were to rewire that vehicle I would probably salvage the current wiring harness and splice and repair everything as it needs to be to operate. I mean taking a stock harness and...