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This is on my to-do list....A3 tank is sitting there, ready to be tampered with :-)

I'd be a lot calmer about this thread if I had not put the surplus rings into my rebuild as well. I am getting started to drop the engine in....we'll see. My LDS has the new style 3-ring pistons, so I have reasonable hope that I am ok.

Are the other gauges fine? Electrical ground connection of gauge (via mounting bracket) or gauge panel (via four mounting screws), defective sending unit, defective gauge.

Others may chime in, but I think that the new style vinyl cargo covers are equipped with all the straps you need. The cover itself has the straps to hold the rolled-up sides, and the straps to hold itself to the roof supports. There is no further straps that need to be bolted to the uprights...

So, in practical terms, what does the difference mean? The longer LDS arm will push the valve stem farther (open the valve more), with the push rod travel being the same? The cross section of the air passages does not change - what is the significance, other than perhaps a little less...

I know that rocker arm differences for the intake valves have been mentioned before. TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 tabulates the LD/LDS/LDT engines (table 1.3) and just above the table speaks to the rocker arms. It states that the intake rocker arms for the LDS-465-2 are different in that they have an oil...

Wildchild467 gives us the same treatment as our favourite tv show, where you are all primed for a spectacular season finale....and they play three weeks of re-runs before that!

No. Oil pressure will immediately push oil through the line and purge any air. You may want to replace the copper seal at the oil line fitting though and you may want to use a new gasket between manifold and turbo.

A lot depends upon what shape the truck is you are buying. A truck that has sat for five years (like the one I picked up) is a different beast than an in-service truck that has been PM'ed regularly. Known defects that need to be nursed vs. the great unknown or stuff that simply decides to break...

Not to side-track, but I will have to break in my engine the normal way - by driving. After install, I will need to idle the engine to ensure it runs reasonably well, compressor builds air and that there are no leaks before I get going. How long of an idle period is acceptable before the engine...

As bigmike said - Heat can come from dragging brakes (but usually that means the drums get really hot, not just warm) or from friction in the hub itself (seal, preload etc.). I was taught that as long as you can put your naked hand onto the hub and can stand leaving it there, the hub is not too...

Pictures!!!!

Please let us know how this progresses! :popcorn:

Could you post a part number from that 5 speed tranny, please? The Ford 7.3 Powerstrokes could be had with a ZF 5-speed, if I am not mistaken. Probably not the same tranny.

sliding hammer? If you don't have one, many autoparts places have them as rental tool.

In order to re-torque the heads, the valve train has to come off anyway, correct? Would removing/replacing the valve train not automatically require valve re-adjustment?

I think your reaction was very good and you nailed the issue. I would be concerned about crud sitting in the fuel tank, getting stirred up with the refuel and making a mess of the new filters in due course. If it were my truck, I would probably want to check and clean out the fuel system...and...

I would spin out a stud and get replacements and hardware while the penetrating oil does its magic. When you re-assemble, put the exhaust and intake manifolds on together. No force required - be patient if they hang up somewhere. You should be able to seat them by hand only, then secure with a...

Soak all the exhaust fasteners with ATF for a couple of days before removal. You will probably find some gunk in the water manifolds to clean out. Depending on the carnage upon removal you might need some new studs for intake and or exhaust; be careful with the water manifold hardware - on mine...

Hmmmm...had no problem matching them up at the local fastener place. Here is the info about the exhaust manifold stud: https://nationalstocknumber.info/part-number/913343X5_005762806 How did I find this? 1) http://www.jatonkam35s.com/jatonkaM35sTMdownloadpage.htm 2)...