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That is strange because when you follow the hand throttle cable, it attaches to the same cable that the foot pedal operates.

DOT 5 loses its purplish colour after a while. You need to take a sample and do the water test (water will not mix with DOT 5).

There's a troubleshooting flowchart in the TM. Pressure from the lift pump is good but is it sustained? Gunk in the tank clogging the pickup? Soft in tank rubber hose collapsing? Vent issue? The fuel filler cap is unvented. Perhaps the tank vent line is clogged.

Unless you are super pressed for time, I suggest to unbolt and remove the winch as well. You already need to disconnect the winch shaft. The winch sticks up really high and you can easily catch (and break) the engine mounts or smack the oil pan on the darn thing.

3-finger is the newer design, if I am not mistaken.

I do not have an M109 but I think I have read next to all M109 RV conversion threads on here, because it is something that fascinates me. Perhaps you need to go see an M934 and evaluate what modern materials (spray foam insulation, styrofoam glue-on insulation panels etc.) can do for you...

Here is my five cents: I cut as liner-sized hole into some 1/2 inch plywood to hold the liner securely. In the first pic, the liner is actually stuck in that hole in the plywood. I held a can of WD-40 in one hand and sprayed into the liner, then honed with a power drill and the attached hone in...

Scumbags. With the price for scrap steel not exactly stellar, perhaps parting out is the motive...axles for mud bogger etc. They still need to get rid of the rest of the truck that is useless to them. Cut the frame and throw all the "garbage" into the cargo bed. Then haul the bed to the...

Sounds like you did have two issues going on - the stuck fuel control rod and the stuck shutoff cable. I am unclear as whether you fixed both; the shutoff seems to be working now, so I would give it a gander, with the son standing by at the air intake with a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 to be able to...

If you open up the bottom of the engine, you can always plastigauge 2 or 3 main bearings (only need to loosen the brackets that hold the oil pipe to the block so that you can get the socket on). That would give you a quick estimate as to where the main bearings are, wear-wise, and then decide...

So true - I can attest to that. Really cool when you revv it up, let off the fuel and watch the flame shoot out the exhaust stack. Even if you were deaf, you'd realize that this is a massive misfire!

Ha, ha, ha! :-) I have a "good running takeout engine" that was just going to be swapped in. It ended up being a rebuild (old crank but new bearings rings, etc.). Nothing like your car manufacturing. These projects have a life of their own.

Apologies - not intending to hijack. Does "retorque" involve running the engine to operating temp, taking off valve covers and valve train and setting torque wrench to final torque (130 ft lbs for non TD, 157 for TD) and going over the head nuts at the original sequence?

I had to replace that, too - I made up a new fitting out of a "T" that threads into the bottom of the IP and a 90-degree NPT elbow that threads onto one side of the "T". Works fine.

I am looking forward to the picture of you driving it out of the garage under its own power for the first time - and the grin on your face when you do it! :-)

I would think that the altitude above sea level might have something to do with the smoke, too.

Updates...we need updates!!

I was lucky enough to actually be able to go see (and, even more rare, get inside) U-534 at Birkenhead, well before the museum went under, the boat was cut up and an incomplete medley of sections was put on public display near a subway station, where they now sit and rot. The pictures above are...

Got 'er done. The good news was that I did not forget to disconnect anything! The bad news was that we did a bit of damage to the truck: - tranny tunnel cutout in the firewall is bent - ether start got a good smack (looks like bent the ether bottle's neck (!) and solenoid mounting bracket) -...

Also see the thread on the rebuild of a "C" turbo with a Schwitzer factory kit (about $100)!