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The rotor should be tight on the distributor shaft. It is normal to be able to give the rotor a bit of a twist and have it spring back, that is the advance mechanisim. Fuel in the oil can be caused by a leaking diaphragm in the fuel pump.

If it starts fine, runs good and when it decelerates the RPM isn't slow to return to idle, there is an issue in the pump. The throttle stop screw needs to be set on a stand, you can't do it by ear or by the way it runs. If it gets set too little, on downhill, coasting conditions, you can scuff...

Restriction and starting fluid fittings have a "rock" filter in them, that way if the restriction gauge or the line from the starting fluid can breaks, falls off, has been forgot to be installed, whatever, the engine doesn't get filled with dirty, unfiltered air. Remember, the flow will find the...

Nope, It uses a 1/2 in id rubber grommet. The end of the line slips into the fitting and the grommet compresses the line and fitting together. No seal between the line and fitting happens.

That number is a Cummins number, but Quikserve Online shows nothing. It most likely supercedes or is NLA. I can't get into the IMS database from home to check supercession.

I saw that yesterday. Wana bet it will never see the dirt...other than PCH washing out.

Commonly called a "mustache" spring. You can get them at the regular places like Saturn, Memphis, Antelope Valley Truck, White Owl, etc. Ask for it by that name and they will know.

Cool, do a recovery an bring NOTHING! How do....never mind.

Ever been to Pirate4x4.Com - The largest off roading website in the world. There might be a bit more info that you crave there.

Go here, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-tms/77607-tms-deuce.html There are three manuals. TM 9-2520-246-34, 34-1 and 34-P. See if those help. The t-case weigs as much or more than the engine in your truck.

Hmm maybe that needs to be a sticky too :shock:

I have no issues with removing the bolts, my Dad is a TV repair man and has an AWSOME set of tools, but removing it from chassis is tough. Recovery4x4 is correct, the plugs make all the difference. take 'em out and it falls out...almost :razz:b

Again, print out the PDF of the CAD and follow it. It shouldn't be that much of an issue to fix it. Just needs a multi meter and a bit of time...and maybe beer :razz:

Did you follow the CAD drawing in the sticky at the top of the deuce forum? There should only be two wires to the button, 74 and 74A.

get with 100dollarman. He bobbed a mess of trucks and used 105 trailers. He might have axles sitting on the ground.

Done a couple purchaces from GL and privat party. The PP is WAY easier and you can find out what maintence has been done on the truck. If I were to do it again, I'd do PP. Come check out my truck!! Link to the ad is in the sig line.

Yes, it will work fine, and it will mix with any other coolant without gelling or developing silicate drop out.

There are one or two t the Museum.

Was it leaking?

The leak was at the fuel pump IIRC. This was a while ago!