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Actually, it should be steel, not aluminum, as it appears to be the M116 series trailer which used a steel deck, not the M1101/1102 series with aluminum. But a 2x4, zip ties, and some bungie cords still aren't a bad idea.

For the 5kw it's usually designed for HMMWV tow, in this case it's an M116A3 trailer from the look of it. Surge brakes, not air over hydraulic. Most of us would recommend having a trailer to put it on for the tow home, just in case something happens, but if you are going to tow it then I'd...

I crawled under my truck and had my niece turn the steering wheel back and forth to try and find why it won't hold toe adjustment. Found out it was the idler arm. Really wanted to upgrade to the moog, but tight on funds at the moment so found an A2 idler arm NOS on epay (pictures even showed...

The BEOD is supposed to be mounted to the M1097A2, which is a standard A2 heavy variant with the 4 speed transmission. I have never heard of any military HMMWV having a 6 speed transmission. So when you say electrical issues, you are talking about the HMMWV itself having issues, not the BEOD...

1) Not as easy of a conversion to dumping as everyone thinks, the bolts on the A-frame are there for assembly reasons, trying to use them to dump the trailer will end up causing things to break unless you modify them in some way to prevent binding/flexing, as the angles of the parts are wrong...

Do you have access to the BEODs with the possibility of taking a bunch of good pictures of everything in/on them for those of us who have never actually seen one in person can do it properly? Also, what have the problems with the electrical wiring been, as well as with the coolant systems...

I got really tired of how anemic the stock horn sounds, so I wired these in parallel with it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EG18Y8I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I put the BEOD back on, and installed the plug onto the end of the cable. In theory this should make things a little faster/easier whenever I install/remove the BEOD, and definitely less messing in the battery box. I still have 10 amp 12v and 24v circuits to run, I'm thinking I'll run the...

That torque makes more sense for grade 10.9 than 57 flt lbs does. I just looked up the torque, then checked on the chart what grade it would need to be for that torque spec. Still, This is one of those situations where I don't think stepping up to a higher grade of bolt is going to cause any...

it wouldn't surprise me if those brackets were part of someone's hillbilly armor for the windshield area, but I don't actually have any type of clue.

I believe it should be a laminate, the glass and plastic are glued together. Not just a thin film of plastic but a thicker piece that would make the window glass too thin if you remove it, and it will rattle around/not fit right. Might call around to automotive glass shops and see if they can...

You have to make sure it's a grade 12.9 metric bolt. If it's a lesser grade then it won't take that much force. http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm If it's still breaking then I'd get my torque wrench calibrated. (I know the snap on truck around here has a torque wrench testing tool for...

According to first post, there is power at the convenience outlets, so that would indicate that it is producing power, just not getting to the lugs.

Don't worry about it, we all tend to overlook the really obvious stuff. Even the experts here got you onto page two without asking if you checked it, because we all just make assumptions about things like that.

Putting a block off plate would actually defeat the purpose of the air pressure then, as soon as pressure built up behind the valve, there would be nothing to hold it in place. Once you have the head off, my suggestion would be find an automotive machine shop and have them check everything...

I'll also agree, sounds like a shorted gen head. You should NEVER see sparks from the generator assembly. Very unlikely you'll be able to fix it if it's saying overload, and I really don't want to get your hopes up. There is the VERY slight possibility it's a single wire that is shorting...

If that much air compressor can't keep up with the leak, I think best bet is to bite the bullet and pull the head for a better look. You'll want to make sure nothing got past the valve and damaged the piston or cylinder wall at minimum, piston damage won't show up during a leakdown test but can...

Thanks for that. I definitely found it a bit frustrating, one of the plugs I bought I ended up damaging during disassembly to find the pin contact color codes. If I didn't have the plug in front of me I seriously doubt I'd have found any of this info. Couldn't find anything with that exact...

Doesn't a request like this pop up every 6 months to a year, and nothing has ever come out of it because they finally realize it isn't cost effective, and there just isn't a big enough market?

So last night I ordered 4 of the contact pins and 4 reducer bushings through the Mouser website. I paid for 2 day fedex freight. I'm west coast, so to me this says, if they hurry up the order, I should get it by end of day Friday. This morning got an email with the shipping notification, they...