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Good luck with your CUCV search, once you get it running decent you will enjoy every minute of it. Whatever your budget is, plan on spending 50% more. Find something that is in pretty good shape compaired to a fixer upper. It is money well spent. Dashpads and seat covers are easy and cheap to...

Everything on my truck is installed correctly. My draglink is bottomed out so I may end up shaving a 1/4" off each draglink end so I can further adjustments. Thanks for all the input on the steering shaft parts. Saved me a bunch of time taking it apart for no reason:beer:

SouthernSteel and ODdave are confusing me:-( It can be reclocked but yet only goes on in one postion....aaaaaahhhhhhh

Sluggishness with a 6.2:popcorn: Check the bolts. If they are boogered up, just remember that TC bolts are application specific and high grade. Don't replace them with hardware store stuff.

I have a 4" lift with a 2" drop pitman arm. I confirmed that you can only put the steering wheel and pitman arm on one way. My draglink adjustment is bottomed out, cannot make the draglink any shorter. My steering wheel is offcenter to the left. I need to rotate about twenty degrees to center it...

You could have a flexplate starting to crack as well. Typically makes noise under heavy loads and then gets worse. Not much going on in a non-lockup TH400 TC. The only thing that could really fail is the stator bearing. It is a one way bearing so it either fails locked up or freewheels in both...

I wish I would have known that earlier, I just ordered some fab parts from McMaster Carr. I made a temporary one to verify operation and it works great. Thanks for the offer!

Dodge Power Wagon? Great rig but not tough as nails. Between the stamped sheetmetal suspension parts and the fact that you can't get more than 30k from a wheel bearing, balljoint, TRE, or steering box, not surpassing a CUCV in the strength/reliabiltiy department. Still a cool rig and I would...

Thank you for the heads up, still trying to fab something up that works.

4" with minimal trimming is best 6" starts to get heavily into driveline vibes, bigger steering corrections (crossover steering becoming mandatory) raising COG for no reason You would be far better to stay 2-4" with trimming and clocking the tcase up, you gain far more than just by lifting.

Need more info like what fuel and ignition system are you running. Since it is an 85, I assume carb with HEI. Use the pink wire going to the injection pump to feed your ignition coil. That's it! The 6.2 doesn't have much useless wiring on it. I also assume you are converting to a 12v system, do...

Does that actuator rod have a lot of freeplay between the two pipe and tube dimensions? I made on that has about 0.025" difference in materials and it binds up when you go WOT on the IP. Not a good scenario. I know I can't blame Toyota if this things sticks open on the highway :)

Excellent! I have the Barber Coleman tech manual for the governor pieces and the Marathon Electric tech manual for the generator head itself. Is there another one for the PTO drive on the SECM body? Also, anyone have a writeup on doing a single phase 120/240v conversion? I know I have to rewire...

Appreciate it I figure it must be telescoping, no way it could be a solid rod. I'm stoked that after troubleshooting a ton of misadjusted switches and poor connections, everything is functioning great. Don't know why the government removed the actuator rod to disable the whole system...:cookoo:

I am fixing my generator setup on the M1031. My truck came with no linkage between the actuator motor and the little heim joint that attaches to the IP throttle assembly. I fabbed up a temporary rod to see if the system works. It works well but I noticed that the throttle pedal is no...

Rebuild them yourself, it is a piece of cake. I have said it before, unless the PO has shown proof of the alternators being done or you have done it yourself...they should be rebuilt for piece of mind. If you can't afford the $100 which covers both alternators, you can't afford a CUCV or any...

Not only are front lift blocks illegal in pretty much every state but are incredibly dangerous. Blocks out back are generally a bad idea past 2-4" depending on the leafs, power, tires, etc. They still cause damage like wrap and turning the leafs into a W shape. Not a good move. I would not ride...

If you haven't reman'd the alternators yourself and the previous owner didn't show proof, do both with complete kits for piece of mind. Time and money well spent!

This world sucks...I hope whoever would do such a thing gets a non-treatable STD or at minimum is ugly.

Pretty common on diesel OTR and other trucks that are relied on to make money and cannot afford to be taken out of service. At minimum, cutting the filter open to see what is in there is good practice once and a while. This is part of a normal oil change on aircraft because engine failure...