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Thicker fuel will increase the pressure drop through the filter. And could increase case pressure in the pump. This MAY compensate for lower energy density or it may be over-fueling. You won't know until you measure pressure at the case.

I let life get in the way of my FMV addiction :papabear:, as in I got married last year (June 13th) and let my 1031 sit up. Fortunately, a fellow member kept it running despite the batteries dying so there wasn't any concern there. A few mice made dens in the back but the shop vac took care of...

Sounds like the diodes in the rotor are shot. See the -34 TM as to their replacement. Had one like this when I was active duty. Real booger to diagnose with the -20 and direct support didn't want to look through it until I had gone through all throubleshooting, including replacing all filters...

If the block is a 409, why can you not replace tappets without taking the head off?

Does every j code 6.2 have cracked webs? I am thinking that might be from unauthorized use of starting fluid.

SF and CC are obsolete. S oils are for Spark ignition, C oils are for Compression ignition. The second letter is revision. Some are dual rated. Oils have been upgraded over the past 30 years so most C oils are CJ, most often CJ 4 which can be used in some modern spark ignited engines.

It is bacteria which grow because of water. The sock in the tank stops it from entering the pickup. But if water gets in the filter, all bets are off.

Ok, so the x-ducer doesn't have any impact on engine op. Probably for electric priming pump and ether injection system control. I still have yet to locate a suitable wiring diagram on these new style TMs. Work packages just seem vague.

No smoke, no fuel. Hand vacuum pump attached to the top valve on the fuel filter, then vacuum until you get fuel in the vacuum pump's container. Quickly close the valve while maintaining vacuum. This works on my step son's 1009 after he ran it dry, then after he let it set for a few months.

Not a problem as long as the element is grounded. Current flows through small diameter resistance wire inside the metal sheath, insulated with ceramic or other electrically insulating substance. The ground is needed in case the element burns out as they like to short out against the sheath...

And if you work fast, there is an auction with that part coming up for auction ;). Actually, 6 of those transducers, look new. Plus a host of other goodies. The USATACOM CAGEC means Cummins did not supply it. I have a fuel pressure gauge in the SECM we could use to see if the final filter is...

A search on the -24P TM under 'transducer' reveals the following, with my comments in parenthesis and the beef in red: 10 (item on figure 145), PAFZZ (SMR code, meaning a stocked part that field support can replace and cannot repair/adjust) 6695-01-146-7132 (NSN), 19207 (CAGEC, meaning who...

GL has tortured many a driveshaft. Also, I have seen/heard of people taking things off GL vehicles.

This is often a sign the solenoid contactor on the starter is a bit worn. For those who don't know, when you engage the starter, the solenoid first pulls the Bendix spur into the engine's ring gear, only after that happens does the juice flow to the starter motor. This is switched by a large...

That is something that should have been caught on a DA 2404, BY THE OPERATOR. Then again, some units don't have extensive training on PMCS or the care. To blame this on mechanics is a bit over the top, you didn't acquire this vehicle straight from the United States Army, you bought it from GL...

The -23 TM states the leaking fuel pressure transducer is a sign of flow resistance to the injection pump, either a slight plug in the lines or a filter that is clogged. I would suspect the filter after the priming pump is the issue. Also, the transducer controls the electric priming pump...

Sure, why not? I am using a Permatex Vinyl/Leather repair kit http://www.permatex.com/component/virtuemart/permatex--vinyl---leather-repair-kit-detail for the final cosmetic fix but years of sun and heat shrunk it to create huge canyons...not having flexible polyurethane foam, I elected to use...

Nice work. Now for the reason the crank broke..did you ever swap out the harmonic damper? These are a critical component for engine longevity. As this component ages, the rubber hardens, losing the damping effect. Then it becomes a flywheel, doing the opposite effect of damping out crankshaft...

Bummer to see it gone. Guess the empty nest will soon be filled with 5 ton goodness.

The battery terminals eventually wear out. While you can get lead shims, it is best to replace. Stock terminals are either cast onto the wire or crimped, I found they can be melted off with a torch. Wrap the insulation next to the clamp with wet paper towels and heat the opposite end. Do...