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Like I said, kids.

Still perplexing. You want economy yet ability to fling mud long distances? Aside from tractor pulls or mud runs, off road ability is by STATIC friction. Not dynamic mud slinging. Rock crawls are a prime example, once rubber spins on rock, it LOSES traction. This is why vehicles fishtail...

Seen it before. Either have the nose cone repaired (aluminum casting, easily welded) or replaced. Otherwise the bolts will continue to break.

Yes, that canister is both a filter and water sep. The spring in the bottom is a positive clue. I don't understand NAPA stocking, other than to say they are independently owned franchises with some ability to view inventory at other stores. They do have quality parts, often OEM. Far cheaper...

Just had starter run-on WITH your modification. First thing I did is pull that relay yet the starter CONTINUED to run on. Must have been the Bendix drive solenoid on the starter which stuck/welded in the closed position.

Ok, THAT was exciting. Corrected that problem, then when testing to adjust idle speed, the starter HANGS. As in STUCK ON STARTER RUNNING WITHOUT KEY!!! Yes, I did the Doghead conversion so I pulled that. STILL CRANKING WITHOUT STARTER RELAY!!! Before the batteries died, I managed to...

Why? Are you expecting more power with electronic fuel injection control? This is an indirect injected engine, you don't have much more potential without increasing airflow through the engine. Too much fuel burns pistons and overheats the head.

I thought it was because it had so few miles (9009 when purchased in 2012, 14250 now). I just noticed the wiring for the governor install is WRONG!!! This was done at Able Body Manufacturing or where the US Army had the work body and generator installed. In stock configuration, the cold start...

My air conditioning is working GREAT!!! See top of this page... Needed three cans, lost some due to sticking charge ports. Still need to plumb the condensate drain. Not just noticeably cooler but COLD. Since this is electric driven, it needed new alt belts. Much better now.

Topped off the system today to proper pressure levels, now it produces condensate and cools adequately for hot days. The motor is a 3000 RPM rated unit, I measured 2950 RPM under full load. That is right in the heart of the compressor's peak thermodynamic efficiency. Now I need to fix...

I know about those tools. Unfortunately, the location and space of the compressor-motor and the charge/test fittings prevents that, unless I dismount the compressor-motor. $18 is too cheap. If the caps don't seal.

Yes, you could go with a battery equalizer to maintain 24 volt starting. With good batteries, you would have enough to jump start too. But still that 100 amp, 24 volt charging system makes jump starting just a bit better. I know, I have had to start timo247's 1009 a dozen times the last few...

Ok, $6.04 per can, with tax. I give them plenty of business. But now I see weepage from charge ports. So I either pay a pro to recover 24 ounces of R134a and swap the Schraeder valves or ignore it, then DIY and evacuate with $18 recharge. The Clean Air Act amendments are so arcane they...

Yes, I am a regular at this auto parts store and a little bit of honey got me the business account discount. Did the same with the group 27 dual purpose marine batteries in this CUCV. $80 out the door for batts with 850 CCA and 180 RC. Dual purpose deep cycle and cranking, because of the AC...

Motor is an Imperial Electric 24 volt 70 amp nominal draw NEMA 56 like size brushed PM DC cont duty 3000 RPM 2.25 HP that I picked up from a surplus retailer. The alternative energy guys depleted the stock so no more. I don't have a shunt to measure current but estimate something in the 80+...

FINALLY finished the project started in 2012, AC for my 1031. Basically, a large 24 volt DC motor is driving a Sanden SD7B10 compressor direct drive. The condenser is mounted conventionally, using the engine cooling fan and the evaporator is a small under dash unit. Aside from 2 holes in the...

Relays stick. It would only take one stick to burn all glow plugs out.

Water in fuel is at the filter base. Green wires going to the injection pump are the fast idle and cold advance solenoids. Fuses can blow due to excessive heat which can arise from dirty/poor connection at the fuse block. Fuse material has a positive temperature coefficient meaning...

Yes, that was the design philosophy for the ballast resistor (firewall mounted resistor coils), keep battery balance. Also remember, the starter solenoid (Doghead or stock) runs off 12 volts, the front battery. If voltage in the front battery is depressed from glow plug draw, this solenoid may...

Figure 9 of appendix F in the -20 shows that block with a mirror image next to it, that is the engine firewall connection. The brown wire circuit continues on to the instrument panel where it make connection with one side of the light bulb (idiot light) for that alternator. From there, the...