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I agree on t- stat I would also flush the system, likely cause is air in the system mixed with flakey thermostat. I would also top off the coolant tank get some one to help you stall test the truck. While the truck is under load and boost look for bubbles in the cooling system indicating a...
I wouldn't pick on the cat engines I work on all types for a living, weather its cat deere cummins or Detroit there isn't much other than filters on the aftermarket any more. The dealership parts are expensive. T,he only draw back I see for cat is you cant even go to napa and buy gaskets...
I'm no body man ,the chemical agent resistive coating AKA CARC is essentially imron paint it is tough as nails, and ppe precautions are the same as you would use for imron. Be advised dust masks are for convenience, any time a mask is required, it must be FIT tested to an assigned user, and said...
the c-7 has a cat filter housing with the cat pump mounted in it, that would be an option too. That system supposedly only filters to 10 microns, and you would still need a stand alone water separator.
cat makes their own stand alone pump that locks to a seal. I have one these are the pumps , the ones on the filter housing seem to be the source of a lot of air leakage. The cat pump closely resembles the primer pump found on old m-37's and other GED. equipment with the winterization kit.
Cat recommended a racor with out a primer pump or a filter housing off one of the newer dpf equipped engines the new dpf equipped filters have a 6 micron filter he said if I wanted a primer pump to get the cat pump, the filter mounted pumps just cause trouble
good luck on the new truck , my cat guy said that those fuel filter housings on the lmtv's were a pos and prone to air leaks maybe why it wont start the gov plannet guys are pretty nice, but as I found they don't dive real deep into diagnostic if a truck dosent start
in a stock engine an egt would be a non issue if every thing is working right, however it combined with a boost gauge is a great tool if you are having drivability problems.
I have both types I have a small gear pump attached to an electric motor for fuel oil I use to drain and refill hydraulic tanks and it works real good, for larger quantity's I use a wildon pump the pneumatic has the advantage of being able to go into an explosive environment like a fuel tank...
on the older pre cup engines like the 7.3 and 6.2 the glow plugs can light off the charge at the wrong time and turn the intake into a grenade. How ever the more likely problem is blowing out the precups with or with out the glow plugs working, I have seen this on the m973 susv's . I know I have...
wedge brakes are more forgiving than s cam, nothing hard you do need to understand air system checks, and wear guidelines which are spelled out in the tm. My suggestion is get a guy near by from a heavy truck shop to come school you on the full system that way you never have to ask a question...
the problem I see with both is the cabs don't seal up, I wanted some thing on that platform but, in the end went with the lmtv because I wanted a cab that would seal up. I still remember my national guard days of clearing the snow drift from the drivers seat. I found both kind of lacked leg...
the regulator is internal the one wire should be 12 volts that is your exiter wire the other wire goes to your idiot light in the dash the large terminal should also read battery voltage with the engine off. The regulator and diode trio is an easy replacement. I have had several of those...
they start just fine on 12 volts started my 6.2 for years at - 20 no problems as long as my batterys were good. The 24 volt starter will draw less amps to do the same work,if you really want to make it sing use one of the new gear reduction starters. Ive seen them in both 12 and 24 volt good...
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