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and yeah, just the necessities being a well pump and fridge/lights shouldn't be an issue. I do my house with an MEP-802A, so just under twice the output that you've got, and in all reality I could get by with a lot less if I planned to never use the hot water heater, oven, or dryer. Lights, a...

Yes, when you add the jumper then L0 becomes your neutral, and would have to be connected to the house neutral in order to do 120V loads. Once you add the jumper just make sure you don't turn the selector knob to any other voltages as you could fry the generator by doing so. If it's possible...

I changed my post to different information as what I found out completely changed everything that's needed to be known. Looks like you responded before I fixed it.. It also explains why your well pump being 240V is the only thing working right.

It took me a little while to find, but near the very end of TM 5-6115-271-14 it shows switch position "C" which is the 240V 1 phase uses L1 and L2 to give 240V. To have it as 120/240 would require a third terminal being used, so this is a 240V ONLY in this position, not 120/240...

https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/ISUZU-4LE1-OPM.pdf https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/Isuzu-4LE1T_SHOP-MANUAL.pdf It depends on the specs of the engine, some had smaller oil pan capacities depending on application, as that's a standard Isuzu...

sounds like either the starter solenoid is stuck or somewhere a wire is giving it the start signal. The starter itself is probably fine, would need a new solenoid if that's the issue.

while the cost might be a little upsetting, I doubt you'll find any reason to be unhappy with the batteries themselves.

definite pattern scheme https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=225282

https://www.marcorsyscom.marines.mil/Portals/105/pdmeps/docs/MEP/B0930.pdf 20kw rated unit. Shouldn't have anything to do with year of build or rebuild or any of that stuff. These were an "emergency acquisition" to the military, bought outside the normal set of rules, and the impression I'm...

definitely go through the 100 hour break in. Even if the gauge is wrong, you won't be hurting anything by doing it.

yes, RPMs set frequency. Most U.S. appliances will have no issues with voltage between 110-120 and 220-240VAC, so topping out at 245 shouldn't be an issue unless you're trying to do something weird with 277VAC or something.

200 amps of 24v and 50 amps of 12V is what the HMMWV 200 amp alt will put out to my understanding.

My truck does mostly the same thing, I'm assuming the first part where it is in the yellow is where it's recovering the surface charge on the battery that was depleted by the glow plugs and cranking, and the dips are the glow plugs pulsing. After that comes up a little the voltage regulator is...

If nothing else they might be able to give you a part number for the manual. At that point you should be able to order it through a dealer, but if it's like the control panel, you'll have to contact the Industrial dealer for the manual.

Yup, OSPHO is good stuff.

I'm dealing with a 55kw magnum for a customer. Magnum was bought out by Generac. They are now Generac Mobile, which is separate from the regular Generac equipment/dealer. I'm in the process of getting myself set up as a vendor with them. I called and talked to one of their parts guys last...

Odyssey and Northstar brands are both at the top of the battery food chain from all the research I've done. Odyssey is probably the best and only real option if you want to maximize the power stored inside the stock battery compartment. If you want to add another battery box under the rear...

Last time I saw something like that it was a bad connection at the terminal. All the amperage was trying to go through one small spot, causing it to melt. It doesn't appear to be the battery's fault since you've replaced them a few times, I would try a different end for the cable. Looking at...

While I haven't done the conversion myself, I've worked on other units that have been converted. The process is pretty straight forward if you are doing a tri-fuel conversion, which just adds a propane/NG injection port/venturi thing and doesn't really modify the existing fuel system. The ones...

not in any particular order, but picked up a mostly stripped trailer. Had to replace one section of brake line, then flushed the system using a mightyvac. Finished stripping it down, cleaned up the rust spots. Primed and painted it yesterday. I do need to find a new vent cap for the brake...