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Thanks Roscoe, the cabin is a previous "handywork", started to build it in '89, once you move in, it just never gets finished. :-)
Stretch, the torque rods are a little different on this truck, there is only one end with a rubber bushing and it's bolted via the cross piece so it can't "fall...
Yes, except for insurance/tags. The tires did worry me for a while, but having de-mounted and mounted a couple, I have gained confidence in them. Extremely tuff and almost pristine on the inside. A local junk dealer is trying to sell the 395/85r20 MVTs I got, but it may be time to put them in...
Well, I can continue this process now after finally getting one of the torque rods loose using a jack hammer. There isn't enough space to swing a sledge hammer here.
Changed the oil a while back to 20w50 aviation oil. The engine is a bit quieter with the heavier viscosity oil. A sample of the old oil has been sent off for analysis...
Does the cab on the Tatra offer rollover protection or is it mainly to keep the weather out?
What kind of seatbelt arrangement do they have and what is the max sideslope permitted?
Appreciate the images, we don't see enough of the foreign stuff IMHO. :-)
After many months of half lame attempts to get the pintle loose, using any number of "penetrants" without success, I finally went at it with the 10lb sledge and it budged!
Amazing what a little rust can do to hold something in place. The grease cavity was dry and the zerk fitting to it broken...
Picture of one of the dents.
This is line #1, which is to "activate" the air brakes, no brake fluid here. The wheels lock up on a gravel road without any load, so it works, but perhaps with reduced effectiveness....
(I'm in the process of replacing the loom and keep finding these dents)
I have a fair number of dents and some kinks in the 1/4 and 3/8 inch copper tubing along the axles on my 8x8 and was wondering how much of a deformation is acceptable. Obviously any dent or kink will reduce the (air) flow, but by how much?
The military has classified leaks, some of which are...
Nice to see some of these mods! Good ideas to build on.
Here is a variation on the overhead dome light mount. The overhead heater controls are factory.
Lance, I agree with you on the condensation bit, but I still like the top covered, especially in the Winter to keep snow and ice out. I cover the winch that way (top only) and may make a "top only" cover for the genset. The Bikini top is another example.
Still, it's good to have the real thing...
Found this image, posted by Armada a couple of years ago and my question is, is the cover generally similar for the larger (10KW) set? Is it made the same way with pocket and "draw string"?
I have a fuzzy image of a cover for the genset as mounted on the xm757 8x8 and it appears different...
Both your 12V and 24V supplies are referenced to the NEG terminal of the grounded battery, which should be the same as the chassis. Use a DVM to double check your power supply with the (-) lead connected to the grounded battery NEG terminal.
You may want to read this thread and others related to the "Protective Control Box"...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/29557-no-start-bad-control-box-4.html#post448813
The ferrule is not replaceable in this case, since it would involve cutting the tube.
If the ferrule is seated nice and square, you should still be alright. One reason to push the tubing into the fitting is to get it aligned so that the ferrule can do its job. If it ends up at an angle on the...
The tubing must bottom out in the hydraulic head seat and must be aligned perfectly. Keep the tubing loose on the other end by loosening up the clamp around the injector.
Push down firmly as you tighten the nut and the ferrule should really be free to move a little for this to work the first...
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