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Apply some basic geometry and construct your own stencil. :-) Edit: Added image

I have not seen "new" lines, how was the ferrule seated? Was is loose and sliding easily on the tube like on a typical copper compression type fitting or was it already seated? The image below shows how the ferrule gets pressed into the tube when tightened (I ground it down to get a cross...

You may want to install a radiator cover to help warm the engine or better yet, a radiator shutter. These engines will also cool off dramatically when driving on long downhills, I have seen as much as a 40°F reduction, so shutters would be very nice....personally I have a semi-permanent cover...

You will have some "leakage" from the breather tube, in particular if the engine has been idling a lot and you'll have some fumes/smoke as well. There are filters for this with a sump to recover the oil or a drain to let it go back into the oil pan (I have one on my deuce).

Good job Will! Funny, to this day with all the fancy computerized gadgets on the cars, you still have to check the oil with a dipstick....should be a gauge for this, like the fuel gauge, even if it would show the level only with the engine off....

From PS Magazine.

Operating the deuce with a trailer and/or towing is poorly covered in the -10 TM IMHO, can't blame people for asking. Check the PS magazine section for more info. I towed the xm757 from OK to VA .... slow going in the hills,but it did it.

Anybody got an m151 heater/blower in junked condition, since I only need the motor/blower section? Thanks.

Did you check with maddog on this? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/auxillary-equipment/39880-parting-out-mep-003a-runs-good.html

I checked on the control valve rebuild kit from South Wind one time and it's like $80....but yes, it's available and I think there was a minimum order of 3 or 5 kits...

The fuel can only come from the fuel control valve, so you have to remove it and check its calibration.

Handled via PM from here on...

Have you tried to right click on the above images and done the "open link in new window" thing? Should give you full resolution. I'll get some pictures of the second unit later.

The second unit has some rust and light corrosion, but works and rubber parts are good. Let me know what you want to do.

James, I didn't know you were selling these, they are worth as much as you are asking, heck, one heater alone lists for close to $3,000 new, a replacement fuel control valve, available from SW, costs $700 some dollars!! I'm only stating the fact that I could not afford to spend that much money...

Yes, I do have two...need to check the condition of the second. With surplus prices as they are, there is no way to make reproductions any cheaper for such a miniscule market as ours.

No special water proofing paint, just the regular stuff and I used #30118 "field-drab" brushed on for good coverage. To reflect the sun and keep the cab cool, I also added a layer of white latex paint, here shown on the deuce (same for the 8x8).

Adam, don't let that price fool you, I have several and never paid over $100 (one hundred) for any one. Get the components of the system one by one and spread it out over time and you won't feel a thing (in the budget, that is). :-)

The rubber on the sidewalls is very thin, can't have much, if any structural function, maybe it's only an indicator of what's below the surface. I have presented this question before (to tire "experts") and the only answer I got was "replace the tire"...guess that's easy with unlimited funds and...

"jake brake" sort of a generic expression for any loud retarder, kind of calling any copy machine a "xerox". Living out in the boonies where the occasional trucker may use his "jake brake" at will, they are VERY noisy in an otherwise rather peaceful environment..especially at night.