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Sounds like you have the right attitude. I'm still waiting on word from my cousin and aunt in New Egypt, just north of JB McGuire-Dix. Last word was the lake level was rising (Oakford). Phone rings through but no answer.

The engine is interference, if the cam stops moving but the crank moves, there is a good chance a piston will hit an open valve. This bends pushrods.

How about popping the hood when you are jump starting with a running CUCV. This way you will have to shut the hood to move it and will see the cables.

Broken camshaft. Contact Storeman for a replacement.

Wait a second...what does the title say? I thought my M1031 was low mileage with 9009 original. It had all the same paperwork with it, save the -10 and LO. No pioneer tool rack, just 5 pound purple K extinguisher, road triangles, lug wrench and jack handle.

No vehicles were turned axle up. :D

Round contactors are supposed to rotate, looks like this one didn't. It happens, had it on a M35A2 starter. Clean and reassemble. Use as a backup only. I've yet to see a part number for magic blue smoke aua

One little tip...before jumping a vehicle you know NOTHING about, check the polarity of the NATO receptacle. Don't attempt to start any equipment that has no voltage, you might connect to dead short. Your voltmeter is cheap insurance. The center pin is positive on NATO, on old style 2-pins...

The NSN is 6240-00-155-7878. Saturn has this NSN, 2 clams a bulb :idea:

As long as the starter cut-out is working properly, using the start position on S1 to reflash is no big deal. Once the field is established, current through CVT1 sustains the field. Which means the issue is probably not in the regulator. CVT1 has two basic functions, one is for field...

Terminal 27 on Switch 1 feeds both the starter relay and the field flashing, since it starts, you should have voltage to the flashing circuit. Check wire P57C16 from TB4-10 to A1-8, then the diode CR2 from that terminal to A1-7. Follow it down to the exciter coil. Sounds like a dirty...

I notice cooler weather on my VW TDI. Cooler air means more power. At first, I thought you had twin-turboed a CUCV. I was thinking a pair of Garrett VNT-17s would work great, if you could control the vanes correctly. Quite different than a waste gate boost control. Since these are much...

Stop and start traffic is the killer, you are moving 5000 pounds of vehicle.

The gauges may not be as waterproof as they were when new. Best to cover the instrument panel with a tarp. The rest should be fine.

The fragments you found are from the vane pump in the IP. You need a rebuilt injection pump.

Unless you can see smoke, you are NOT running rich. Forget all you know about gasoline engines, diesel engines always run with excess air, LEAN BURN is the norm. Power is modulated by injected quantity, there is no throttle plate and there is no manifold vacuum. Do you have leaking seals on...

How has this change impacted the fuel mileage? I'm thinking late injection timing from an internal malfunction in the cam ring positioning system. There is a cold start advance solenoid, failure here would be manifested as hard starting. The fuel pressure timing advance works respective to...

Stop and start traffic will kill mileage as you are burning fuel to accelerate 5200+ pounds of vehicle, then turning that kinetic energy into heat every time you step on the brakes. You could have sticking calipers since the vehicle has been stored for a while.

Purging the fuel system is easy with a MityVac hand vacuum pump. Connect the reservoir to the pump, then connect to the top purge fitting. Unscrew the valve on the filter body fully, then plug the fitting boss with a suitable plug or even your finger. Draw a vacuum with the pump until you...

The small red wires should be hot at all times, this is why they have fusible links. This tells the regulator in the alternator the charge state of the battery, regardless of current induced voltage depression on the 8 gauge wire connecting the output to the battery terminals. On alternator 2...