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That is the other issue. Letting the can turn cuts the gasket. Over tightening it cuts the gasket and/or shears the pin between toe top "bolt" and the tube. Buy, borrow, rent a torque wrench.

Remember, don't let the housing turn while torquing the bolt. TORQUE it, IIRC 65ft lb.

If your pics show the unit with the parts on it, bring them to GLs attention.

:ditto:

I've seen Hundy's trucks up close, very well put together. If I had the time and $, I think I'd do a trip like that. I'd take two weeks and do it. Pay attention to the list of parts posted earlier. Add a couple of tires to it, some flare line plugs to plug a failed wheel cylinder/brake hose...

If you look closly yo will see that the painted over ones have a metal cover on them. Those are for illuminating the gauges. The light only transmits through the part above the threads andinto the openings in the gauge housings. With the lenses screwed in, you can mark the faces and drill small...

PM dug, you two might have something to swap.

Sprags are a PITA. Alot of people say they are just as good as the air shift. I have had both, the air shift is hands down way better. You know when it is engaged...when you flip the lever. I adjusted my sprag by the TM, with David Doyles help, with a retired Army mechanic and it still didn't...

The SCMVCC swapmeet has them sometimes. The monthly meet was last Sunday. Click on the 2nd Sunday on the calendar and there is a map to the AMVETS post. Another So Cal guy! And another guy from Pasadena. Welcome!

If you drive it the fluids warm up faster. There is no load on the drivtrain when the vehicle is off the ground. A jack stand at each wheel is the safe way. Make sure you are on concrete or asphalt.

The canvas/vinyl will not fit both as the WOOD bow won't, but, the metal bows and uprights are made for both...two sets of bolt holes for the top bows to be wide or narrow.

I think it is just the alternator, battery cables and a harness section. Can you post a pic of the stuff you have?

Very cool lowtech! Did a couple of desert trips about 220 or so rt and a bit of around town stuff. Didn't make it to Tehachapi this year :neutral:

If you can't work it on the hwy, you can take it to Cummins in Bloomington and dyno it.

I dunno if any of the TMs show it, but, I do know that the Clymer/Haynes manuals show it for the C/K pickups and blazers. Maybe try the TM section here or go to Kragan, PepBoys, whatever you have by you. The TMs are free here :wink: They are located under the "resources" tab at the top of the...

Stop idling and work it.

Funny Gimp!! The OP posted that oil was in the manifold, that's prior to the turbo. How do you know it is a zero mile rebuild? If it is indeed, run it hard, the rings aren't seated. Idling it is the worst thing you can do, the cylinders will glaze and it will be a 139 hp oil pump. And no these...

:idea: Ahh, the light comes on! I think I have some NOS ones in the garage. Tonite i'll go look see and let you know. The line wasn't much but I about had a coronary when I saw the price of the fittings, and I get them at dealer prices.

Wasn't there a deuce with a sleeper in the original "Red Dawn"?

G is correct. My dimension was a Cummins N14...sorry :oops: