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I was wondering that, too. A suitable shoulder bolt, a nut and a washer welded on...but I still have to go through safety inspection and if they decide to pull that particular wheel I'd feel not so hot. Thx for the pointers; Erik came through.

Determine, whether you have the ''updated'' air pressure activated switch on the air pack (two wires connect to it). If so, you need air pressure to make it work. My truck is picky; if the air pressure drops because the engine is off and I hit the brakes a couple of times, the brake lights...

As you undoubtedly suspected, there is something inherently evil about looking at a part and guessing its breaking strength. I can offer a few assumptions that may or may not be useful: Sheave diameter should be at least 10 times cable diameter, preferably more. So, with a half inch cable...

Looks like that is the ticket!

My first choice always....but no reply from them.

Yup...tried them..backorder

Folks, I'd need one set of brake shoe anchor pins/bolts. One long one, one short one, two horseshoe clips. I do have the spring. I need them put-in-an-envelope-and-mail-it urgently. Tried local heavy equipment/truck supply; have the Rockwell catalogues but the parts are retired. Yes, I tried...

That answers my question! The "shorties" I have are clearly for the obsolete front brake hose setup, not for the rear at all. My fronts have been modified as per the second picture. Thanks! Curiosity is satisfied.

While replacing all flex lines on my truck, I crawled underneath to replace the two short flex hoses in the rear. I discovered that there appears to be a modification on my truck and I wonder if this is common. The steel brake line coming from the front terminates in a square distribution block...

FMTV and so on I have driven the Austrian Steyr 12M18 (Google it, if you want to see pics) which is the technically much dumber "original" FMTV with an 8 speed standard tranny and differential and transfer case air lockers. The same debate happened, when the first 12M18 started replacing the...

Ditto on my truck, but it is a Grade 2 bolt and luckily I checked! A reminder to swap it out for the shear pins that I put into the glovebox...

When I pre-tripped the new-to-me truck, I had the same setup as you (axle breather mounted on the master cylinder cap). The brake lights were not working, although the brakes worked fine with the pedal maybe a tad soft. I decided to bleed them anyway. After bleeding the brakes, the brake...

Ok....so putting the seal in, while it may not do anything terribly useful, also does no harm. Good to know.

I was mindlessly taking off the front brake drums after having done the rears. Beside the point is that bozo soldier A replaced the driver's side set of brake shoes while he left the right side untouched although it is worn to sh&t and two guide pins fell out. There were no corks in the...

While the weight of the winch is interesting, it is also important to note how far forward of the front axle the winch sits. There is a bit of leverage that comes into play as well. Even empty, a Deuce w/w is quite heavy on the front axle; I cannot find it in the manual right now, but I...

Wow, I did not even know that Deutz Diesels were used in North America outside of gensets. They are indeed very good engines with a long history of military use as well. We had an aircooled 177 hp six cylinder in our ladder truck....a screamer...unbelievably loud (no water jacket) but dependable...

Just before you go for the likely technical defect: if your truck has been sitting outside without a cap on the stack, it can happen that water gets in, washes the soot down the stack and "oily" water that collects in the J-pipe drips out somewhere. Just verify that is not something dead simple...

Here is the scoop: I HAVE to do brakes and seals in the front. I inspected the steering knuckle boots and they look pristine. No cracks or tears. I will be taking half of the stuff off to replace wheel cylinders and brake shoes, but the extra work of getting to and replacing the boots is...

No, there are no pictures, so do not even try! I finally got started on my first rear wheel. I can report the following: - if you do not have the budd socket, the geared lug wrench is a great tool to get the wheels off - the write-ups on this site about axle seal replacement and cranetruck's...

I commend you for your power of positive thinking! :smile: I would have said....not only did the **%$# tranny break, now the *$#** clutch is toast, too!