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To have some dexterity and be able to fit into tight spaces, you really need to throw the gauntlet. (Not wear'em.)

Well, given the option, I'd probably go for open center. It just seems kinder to the hydraulic system not to have it deadhead. Then again, maybe it's not. It could build even more heat. Now I need to look at the other tools (like yours, my impact is FWD or REV only) and see if there are any...

Never gave it a thought. I've simply plugged mine in and used them. Well, after pulling the "Tool" switch to make that circuit operational. Do we have a choice?

That looks like even more of a smoking deal than what I got on the parts-SEE.

My day was (eventually) better than Ron's, so my lack-of-progress report actually includes some progress. Following my own advice and using a small wire brush on the cordless drill to de-paint the last bolt, and resorting to leg power on the 2-foot 3/4-inch drive ratchet, the second axle...

It'd be nice if the paint flaked off the fasteners, instead of in all the places where I would rather have it stay put.

Funny you should mention that. Well, not really, but not even trying to get rid of the paint on the visible part of bolts before removing them is why I only got one of the axle locating links off yesterday. It's also most likely why the captive nuts on the hydraulic oil cooler became...

Searched again, this time for "24 volt Spal fan", but the closest that came up was a photo-less 12-incher...at close to $90. Since I've already ordered the thick, surplus one, maybe it's a good thing nothing better came up. My guess is that you now have a functional spare fan...which may not fit...

Thanks! I looked around a bit today and after seeing the prices for "regular" ones I, too, decided to check on eBay. There's one listing with what looks like a good replacement. Surplus, no less, but those might be too thick. Guess it'll cost $55 to find out if one of those will fit or not. And...

I can believe that. Although, if I had to split wood, I'd use an axe. On a different subject, when you replaced your fans, what make and model (and diameter) did you end up with?

Sounds like you have much more sanity to work with than I do these days.

You have a one in 400 chance to get them all hooked up correctly without even trying to trace a single one. If a couple of things do work afterwards, even if a switch ends up with a different function, you might get an honorary journeyman electrician license.

While I haven't had the need to fight with the wring yet, I can relate to the arthritis. A home made harness with aftermarket gauges would likely be my plan of attack if I had to go to war behind the dash. But that's because I'm concerned with function, not originality.

Whoa! This from the guy who painted his SEE? But, yes, the list of things that needs attention on my (formerly) parts SEE is getting somewhat long - and that's to get in mechanically decent shape. It was, after all, bought as a running but not fully functional SEE. That some things (like the...

I'll have to take a peek on the parts SEE, it already has a 1,200 rpm high idle. And it leaks a fair amount of air, so now I know that the switch won't do anything until there's enough air pressure. Actually, it seemed like the idle went up a bit with the air pressure. Another revelation was...

Thanks!

Oh, now there are plenty of starters available. Where were you when I had to buy one? Of course, it's still in the box - it turned out to be the cut-off switch that's tired. So if you're not planning on buying a SEE for each one, how much are they?

From what I recall reading, to get the "test" button to do something, the light switches have to be in a certain position, the clutch depressed, and maybe it also requires a certain moon phase. Basically, I gave up on it. With the dash light on, my (green) PTO light comes on...when the PTO is...

You just gave me another idea. I rarely use the high rpm setting when running the backhoe, since it doesn't seem to need all that much to do most jobs. Usually I set the hand throttle to about 1,200 and run on that. Now I'll be looking into adjusting the rpm to about 1,400 to 1,600 with the...