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Thanks, Gadget! You really helped me out with that one, twice.
Now I know what there is to work with in my pursuit of running a (front mounted) hydraulic snow blower off the rear hydraulics.
Also, you saved me from trouble shooting the low rpm on the crane - apparently it's supposed to be only...
While looking for hydraulic info, I came across a mention (somewhere) that the high idle is through an air operated gizmo.
You mention "no air pressure", so if you really don't have any, the high idle setup wouldn't work.
Speaking of needing help, I've spent hours now trying to find out what the flow rate and pressure for the rear hydraulic system is.
I'm hoping to run a (front mounted) hydraulic snow blower off of the PTO driven pump, but as mentioned, I've failed miserably in finding those specs.
Any idea...
It could be that your cut-off switch (by the loader levers) is about as good as the ones in my SEE and the HMMH. Every now and then nothing lights up when turning the switch on in the HMMH, but it always helps to turn it on a second time.
In the SEE the switch probably got wounded when I used a...
I'm the first one to fill filters whenever possible, to minimize the time without oil pressure.
However, at least my SEEs and the HMMH takes an agonizing six to seven seconds before showing pressure on the gauge when they've been sitting for a while.
Does filling the filter make a noticeable...
I'd love to have one, too. Seems that someone could make a few bucks by coming up with, and selling, those schematics.
Laminated would be nice, but not essential.
One way to save time (and the planet, if you're so inclined) is to jump the terminals on the temp sensor, making the fans come on that way.
It's under the front "box" on the cooler. Takes a 9/16" wrench on the side and 7/16" deep socket for the bolt on top.
I may end up putting a manual override...
You may want to start with the two fuse panels under the hood, to make sure that all fuses are indeed making contact.
Then there are electrical connections on the valves behind the cab, which I've never messed with. Yet, anyway.
Not sure if you mean that you have no air pressure in the brake system, or if it's only the rear hydraulics that won't work now.
Perhaps the most obvious would be if you didn't engage the PTO. If it's engaged, I'd start looking for electrical gremlins in the rear system.
That one looks nice, in the photo at least.
And it does make me wonder what the heck they put in the fuel tanks in Texarkana. Thankfully, my prefilter didn't look nearly as bad as yours, but the inside of the tank was a different story.
Picking off paint flakes is therapeutic, but not overly...
It's your choice, General Hood, but I've noticed that my SEE digs ditches just fine with somewhat crappy paint.
Alright, I'm envious. I wish I could make mine look as good as it works, but if/when it gets help in the paint department, it'll be with a push broom and floor mop.
Unless, of course...
Never did manage to find anything through NAPA, and we tried pretty hard.
I did find one source where the Mann filter was (as I recall) about $15, and I was skeptical until it arrived. But, it was the real thing.
Either way, we should support places like EI, I think. We'd be screwed without them.
Oh, getting the front fan out isn't that bad...unless it's hot out. But it sure wasn't the 2-hour (including removing the one from the parts SEE) 4-bolt job I had expected it to be.
If changing out the rear fluid anyway, just disconnect the hydraulic lines from the cooler to get access. After...
I shouldn't whine about the heat, even if it's near or record high for here, when looking at what you guys farther east have to deal with.
Anyway two of mine came from Texarkana, also several months apart, and neither has any rodent damage that I know of. Not sure which would be worse for the...
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