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Hey firefox. My write up is in this thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/55385-project-off-grid-m109a3-w-w-log-3.html
MX-7777 is below the bench seat on the tranny hump. I just went to Home Depot and got some stock steel for the C-10345 control boxes (basically same thing as the C-2298).
I'm unsure about the exact differences. This rebuild kit will not work with the 3LM type turbos, which is the "D" type. Hmm, I may need to do a thread on that in the future ;-)
That is the next step. I just completed the rebuild last night. Will post a video when I get around to it;-)
Yes brass. I found the old bearing is still good to go. However the oil seal on the exhaust side was definately worn out. The rebuild kit does give you an extra set of oil seals. So with a good journal bearing and oil seals I just need to track down an O-ring and I've got myself another kit...haha
That's one of those parts that will eventually leak. There are two little O-rings inside the housing that need to be replaced. On my '88, it started to leak on my hot turbo. To remedy a temp fix, I shot some brake cleaner on the end, dried it, and jammed some RTV on the leaky end. That was...
Thanks Dave I appreciate you taking the time converting the manual to PDF and making it available to us...that's pretty awesome!!! Just FYI here is what your manual is for:
Schwitzer 4LE-354 FOR LDS-465-1A
Schwitzer 3LD-305 (old type) & 3LJ-319 (whistler) "C" FOR LDT465's
Schwitzer 3LM-319...
Hey Davey, I was wondering if you can do me a huge favor;-) I need to know how much torque I need to put on the shaft nut (compressor side) on the 3LJ-319 (Whistler) turbo. In fact if you could PDF the 3LJ-319 assembly instructions I would be much appreciated.
Harold the only thing I can think of is to shim the gap. I can definately feel the "freeplay" when accelerating from a stop. Everytime I have to do a double take to make sure she's still there.
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