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Compression ratio is very high for direct injected engines. A glow plug would cause issues with cold starting pressures in the cylinder head. At arctic temps, the air is very dense. The intake heater reduces this density by heating the air. This is also some of the reasoning behind the...

Make sure to MARK the outline of the hinges!!! Sharp pencil works fine. Yes, it is a PITA. And one bolt is hidden.

Yes, that is it! And she is a heavy beast. Please download the TM for correct install/shimming.

Page 10-10 in the TM. That would be TO 36A12-1A-2082-1 for you :jumpin:

NAPA might be able to order one for you. Delco made these starters.

The gear drive starter has the motor axis offset of the pinion drive axis. Check out this manual: http://www.delcoremy.com/pdfs/service_manuals/current/1M-128.pdf Yes, you can drill a hole in the bracket to use both starters.

Well, in Ohio without a garage, you would be best served by any reputable GM mechanic. Not the dealer. But you should find a replacement starter, online isn't an issue. Either the 27MT (direct drive, heavy) or 28MT (geared, lighter but requires modification to the bracket) are available.

Check for voltage to the starter, both the big terminal and the little one, when it is cranked. You should have voltage to the big terminal all the time. Does the voltage (both batteries) drop when you attempt to crank? If so, that sounds like a bum starter. Since you had slow cranking, this...

9-2910-226-34

The original 27MT starter is direct drive and NEEDS the back bracket, otherwise the aluminum nose piece where the bolts go through will break. The newer gear drive starter (motor axis is off the pinion axis) is much lighter. And because the stud where the bracket attaches is slightly off, the...

TexAndy and I did that last month. You need to make a jig with a bit more curvature. For steam, you need a whistle kettle and some heat resistant tube. Use large diameter PVC (DVW) and support it well, it has nil strength at the boiling point. Use a screw cleanout plug on one end, leave it...

That is the control collar positioning mechanism. And yes, the little o-ring there is very important since there is fuel at ~50 PSI behind it. Any leak will dump to the IP sump which drains to the crankcase. Were the safety wires installed correctly? It should be impossible to loosen the screws.

Did you try auto parts? I cannot believe brake parts for a 1980s K5 are not available.

Check the ammeter by disconnecting one lead (disconnect both batteries first). It should have very low resistance. You could have lost some diodes in an alternator.

Mileage and age.

M-543 with the intake moved? That would have been done for visibility, IMHO.

The MAC indicates this is a direct support replaced item. But it is relatively easy, IF you have the correct tools. The bolt is torqued to 200 foot pounds. You will need something to lock the crankshaft. Bear in mind the damper has a key.

Yes, they will work. I like using them because they also keep grease in. The only seal on the axle shaft, other than the boot, is the bushing.

I made my own :idea:. But I am special. Only I used 1/8" strap for the socket wrench part and it being 1018 steel, it stripped out instantly. I need to make the wrench strap longer for front axle use, and use heavier and harder metal.

I got the Murphy's Law affirmation :beer:. But you could really backfeed off a 12 kW. Is that a PTO driven set?