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Hot tank is best, it will pull all the goo and most of the rust. Along with all the paint. Never use muriatic acid, it removes far too much iron. Phosphoric acid will only remove the rust. Now if someone made reproductions in 304 stainless :razz:

Be careful with crankcase breathers...especially in very cold climates because water vapor will deposit, plugging it and causing crankcase pressure to build. Never route the collected oil to the crankcase, it is full of water that collects. Also, it can be quite dirty. Oil mist will not cause...

Much longer life. Radials deform laterally, bias deform on the longitude. Since tread on the NDCC is rather blocky, this forces the blocks together and because they are rather large, there is a lot of scrub. Run them over white concrete and notice the tread marks left on the concrete, that is...

10,000 miles would be a very long tire life. These NDCC bias ply tires just don't live long. The front is heavily loaded, the rears scrub around corners. Definitely check the toe, it is the only thing that can be adjusted. And replace the shock absorbers, it really makes a difference at...

Most were pulled engines, awaiting depot overhaul which never came. Most were probably scrap anyway but a shame all the components went into scrap metal.

I would place a bet on torsional fatigue. The torque required to turn the cam is periodic, this gives rise to fatigue. There are also minor bending loads from each tappet (lifter) which add to fatigue. And then the helical gear mesh load on the drive side, compounded by the injection pump...

OUCH! When the cam stops turning, pistons will smack valves. In a pushrod engine, the damage is limited to valves and pushrods. I see a new cam, tappets, pushrods and reworked heads, at a bare minimum. Do NOT reuse any valve which contacted pistons, when you pull the heads, you will see the...

Desulfating a battery takes TIME. Lots of time. Little sealed AGMs take me a week. I had a deep cycle 20 AH that took a month. Just be patient. As long as you have progress, it will eventually work. As long as the interconnects don't corrode. When you take it off the charger, the voltage...

Have you checked for fuel flow? The lines can be blocked/crimped. Also check control linkage for free movement. It should move very easily. Finally, check the oil drain on the IP. If oil builds up in the IP, it can play havoc with the flyweights. Remember, the "go" pedal does not directly...

Yeah, I installed it wrong the first time around. The cover will not go on. Which is why I had Andy get the stainless safety wire again:-x. Hey, it was a first for me. I need to remember to take pictures to keep my head straight. On the battery, we had that problem last week. At least...

It is just much more secure than chemical thread locking. No need to worry, just remember the safety wire needs to be wound in a manner that would resist removal. Keeping the parts clean is FAR MORE important since this is the most critical section on the IP. Fortunately, most of the fuel...

Check battery connections! That is why the lights and voltage gauge were flickering. When I hit the construction bump in Skidmore last night, the batteries shifted. We had shimmed them up with an old bearing (back battery( and some cardboard but that had shifted. They need to be properly...

Does your M35 not run at all? No fuel? No throttle? This might help you fix the problem. Remove the two screws securing the engine stop control to the injection pump. Attempt to move the control mechanism, it should move FREELY. If it doesn't, you need to pull the control lever assembly...

If you don't have a pressure bleeder, you can buy all the parts needed at Home Depot. What you need is an airline regulator (about $25), 1/8 NPT male fitting to compression tube and 1/4 NPT male to tube fittings. Set the air regulator to about 10 PSI, connect to the master cylinder cap and it...

Yeah, that gasket on the shut-off is WEAK. It looks like window screen coated in rubber but I think it is lead wire mesh. Why Bosch used that kind of gasket is beyond me. For the record, the miracle worker is Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV, found at better gunshops, sporting goods retailers and...

I would hope the lower injection pressure of the LDS engines would be less critical for the pump head. As long as it doesn't leak down too fast, it should work as long as you only use diesel. The nozzles? I have not heard anything good of the Chinese copies. Some are Bosh licensed but that...

Cool. More hands to make work light. That last one wasn't too bad, only we didn't have enough time to effect the repairs so it had to loaded on a trailer. Major malfunctions were the IP control collar was sticky but ran, only the governor couldn't overcome the drag. That and the...

Thermostat opening is proportional to temperature. At idle, there isn't too much waste heat so there is very little flow. Heaters should be plumbed to bypass the thermostat but even then, they won't put out much heat unless you are pulling a load.

There is safety in duals. And a bit more stability with a slight penalty in mileage.

We might need to unfreeze the brakes, sounds like corrosion has also hit the parking brake's toggle link. Did you disengage the lever in the cab :oops:? Page 13-10 on the TM. It really is simple. I will gladly take a bath in DEET to avoid mosquitos. Got any aversion to fogging? Better...