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Could even be bad wiring to the ECM, my understanding of the CAT programming is that it will derate the power but not actually shut off the engine from an overheat. Bottom line, you need a scan tool hooked to your truck while driving to continue diagnosis. Otherwise you are pissing in the wind.

I have come to the same conclusion. The out of balance conduction is far too variable. In my case, I will even have a speed that will be terrible, but later in the drive will be smooth. But let’s say I’m cruising in the smooth zone for a bit and then I speed up a bit and the hop comes back...

Get your dump runs done twice as fast with an M1082!

I don’t know a ton about the air system but I did this on my truck and you are supposed to connect to the red glad hand. That should fill the tanks quick but also will remove the parking brake. I could be wrong but I feel like your tanks filling up off the blue side would indicate failing check...

My gauge is inconsistent as well. I hooked up CAT ET and realized that the ECMs sensor is much more accurate than the crappy gauge in the cluster.

Did you buy one that was parked over at the Camarillo airport?

The rooskis have certainly been having fun with the free Abrams we sent over there, they are starting quite the collection.

What COM port is the USB to serial adapter set to? Does it show up properly in windows device manager?

yes, the adaptor validator points to a problem between the PC and the DPA. did you download and install the “legacy” drivers from the Dearborn website? https://www.dgtech.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/DPAInstall.exe

With the ignition to the truck turned on and the DPA hooked to the truck, what does the Dearborn Adapter validator show? Screenshots please

The steering wheel issue is common as the military locks them up with a chain. If it’s driving straight then simply pop the center cap to reveal the nut and remove the steering wheel with a common puller and clock it correctly. You can also take that time to inspect the turn signal canceling...

oh darn, I could test the whole alt for you but the shipping would be pretty spendy.. Have you tried wiring up a small set of batteries directly to the alternator? If you do this carefully it will completely rule out any faulty wiring or other issues in the truck.

If you pay the shipping round trip I’ll bench test your regulator for free, I have a spare alternator I can test it on, and I can load bank it.

Gone Fishin’

I usually give a little tap to my pivot pin after the cab is at the balance point and it rests on that strap. I feel this is pretty safe as gravity isn’t going to give out any time soon.

Why don’t you use the factory one?

OK I understand now, thanks. I usually keep my bench test batteries topped off so my alternator doesn't stall out my test motor. I will drag them down a little bit and then re-test with a clamp meter and see if my older regulator outputs consistent current. I want to make sure I can catch a...

This is where you lose me a bit. If the batteries are at 28.8V and they aren't taking a charge, doesn't that point to a problem within the batteries? If the batteries were drawing current and the alternator wasn't producing, wouldn't the voltage drop?

I've watched this video like 5 times now, looks perfectly normal. what exactly is the problem? I tested a never used NOS '07 regulator yesterday on the bench with an identical setup to yours, and it behaves the same. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1l_WHBP6oS8lKzLiPA75US29vJWc_PIAD/view

This is the test I am curious about. Simply from the standpoint of removing as many variables as possible.