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Curious if you’d like to revisit this post, you made some pretty specific predictions.

Previous to cleaning the regulator to alternator connection, weren't you getting OVCO on the 28V side? Now that problem has migrated to the 14V side? You deleted 2 of your 4 batteries right? I wonder what would happen if you completely removed the alternator from the truck wiring, and cabled it...

https://dml.dana.com/assetbank-dana/assetfile/7980.zip Here is the Dana Software. What reader do you have?

Question for you guys, If I had some alternator mounts manufactured that took a COTS 24V alternator and fit the stock location, would people be interested in it? Would it also be desirable to add a pad to mount a 24 to 12V convertor so that the whole package sat in the stock location and made...

I think that is an A0 mount. Here is the A1 that looks like it might not need much tweaking to take that alternator…

That’s a bummer man. I have an extra LMTV alternator bracket you’re welcome to if you need a foundation to fab up a custom mount. Also I’d be interested in buying your neihoffs off you if you’re giving up on them.

Hey as long as your coming up with outlandish solutions, what about this one: Take a set of lawn mower batteries like here and connect the alternator directly to them. Then, have a 12v and a 24v DC to DC pair of chargers to connect to the 4 6TLs in the stock location. Those DC to DC chargers...

The regulators are temperature compensating, so that may account for the slight variation it seems like you have in the 28v band. Not sure if you were tracking the voltage versus the ambient of the different legs of your road trip. The fluttering of the voltage was the part that was incorrect...

Oh that’s great to hear! As far as I can tell there is no memory in there. On the test bench I reset power multiple times to the VR and it didn’t make a difference until I messed with the VR harness.

Oh I just noticed that video you added. My alternator was doing exactly this. Did that persistent pulsing of the needle go away after cleaning the VR connector/harness?

Fair enough, then how about I run the alt close to rated output until temperature stabilizes and then overload it with 200A for 10 minutes and see if heat begins to rise ?

Super curious to hear your results.

What would you consider a legitimate test that would confirm (or deny) the alternator is current limiting in such a way that an overload isn’t actually doing harm? Here is what I am thinking: Niehoff's documentation states the 100a is good to about 118amps peak, so my thought is, place a 200A...

When you say its an analog controlled device, what do you mean specifically? The Voltage regulators are microprocessor controlled. Do you mean that the microprocessor is relying on an analog current sensor?

Interesting, Niehoff seems to have a patent to do what you are saying their alternator cant do...... https://patents.justia.com/patent/7466107 FIELD OF INVENTION This invention is related to a control device for a generator, including a system and method, wherein the control device uses a...

Amber simply means it is below the setpoint, the alternator doesn't "disconnect" in low voltage, only over voltage. Sounds like your system is behaving normally. As has been discussed at length on this post and many others, the 100A alternator is undersized for the job, For some reason a...

My stock 2003A1 with original alternator goes dual orange when grid heater is on HOWEVER it does not disconnect the battery. First thing I would do is check the voltage at the 28V terminal on the alternator while the grid heater is on and engine running. What is the voltage? On my truck it was...

100% agree, but fixing that by deleting batteries is problematic as @aw113sgte unfortunately found out in the dead of winter. For folks that don't want to deal with the suspension upgrade hassle necessary to upgrade a 100A truck to a bigger alternator, really should pursue your advice further...

I didn't see anything that said it was due to high failure rates. I could just as easily speculate that its because any truck in the inventory today needs more current for all the additional radios and computers that go into a truck these days..... I've seen plenty of things saying the 100A is...

I have no doubt your correct, by why does neihoffs documentation specifically say it is self limited? That’s the part I don’t understand, do they not understand the product they produce?