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look at page 7-28.4 in the 34-2 service manual(M1078_TM 9-2320-365-34-2). Either 12 or 6 flexplate bolts, accessed thru bottom cover or screw in plug on the front of the bell housing, depending on vehicle serial number...
Save your money and put in a straight 24v alt and use a 24-12 converter to feed the truck 12v loads. pulling the 12 out of the middle of the 24v on the alternator cuts its output by nearly 1/3 at full load, so a straight 24v 100A alt will actually deliver more than the dual volt “100A“...
Re-configuring my panel a bit to accommodate an A1 ex brake/warmup switch. Also decided to add a direct 4X4 switch. This switch is a 4x4 sw out of a case-International Harvester tractor(same config as the OEM panel switches). I am going to add a small lamp test pushbutton under the idiot panel...
What general said. This sounds like it could be a bad connection back to the batteries. Or as suggested a bad ground. Alternator and battery work as a team. You drop your battery load and the alternator can surge in voltage before the regulator can reign it back in. your comment about it...
That's why i asked how you were planning on charging the battery. with a 24-12 converter that would work, but what is the point? You have 24v and the converter provides the 12, what would the added battery do for you?
How are you going to charge the extra battery? You either have enough power available from a 24-12 converter to run the lights or you don’t. A battery in the middle of that circuit isn’t going to really do anything for you except cause charging issues as your 24-12 converter needs to be...
Well if it keeps me from digging a hole and having to get out and rig a line and winch, I like it. I may add one to the rear at some point. If you don't mind saying, what did that little gem set you back?
TL99 would be +12V connected where the jumper cable that connects the two batteries in series(either terminal at the ends of the jumper cable, doesn't matter). IE: at either the 0-12v battery + terminal or 12-24V battery - terminal where the jumper is attached.
Ground is connected to the 0-12V...
well you made it relatively easy. TL10 is +24v to the starter solenoid. TL39 is +24 to the polarity protection box 24v batt terminal
of the 2 remaining cables. one is the main ground cable(TL48) going to the front of the starter motor via an instrument shunt(measures current) located near the...
the only CTIS line that has pressure with truck off is the feed line from the wet tank protection valve, it will only have pressure if the tank is above 85PSI and that line crosses over and runs up the passenger side...
there are 3 lines on the drivers side that would have pressure without your...
The lines are different sizes, but the threaded port where the fittings attach are the same size. I disconnected the lines, swapped the fittings and then re-attached the lines to their original fittings in their new locations. i think those are 1/2"NPT, but would have to measure. Whenin doubt...
The wet tank is supposed to act as a final filter/dryer stage in the air system before the air feeds into the service brake tanks. Every A0 I have come across has had an issue with the wet tank plumbing, with the wet tank Td off of the dryer output line and fed on to the service tanks. Plumbed...
the test is to fully charge the system(dryer purges) then shutdown. drain all the air out of the wet tank and close the drain valve. Look for pressure drop on the pri/sec-rear/front air gauges in the dash. if you note air loss on the gauge, open the wet tank drain and if it has built up air...
well if it is draining all your air while parked you have some other issues as well. That is the point where air from the front red/emer gladhand via a check valve, charges the wet tank and the rest of the system. it is located in the air sample line that the governor uses to monitor wet tank...
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