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Interesting, I do have a rear locker.
I would love to get 9.5 mpg. Just worried about off road situations where you want to creep up the rocks, Not rock bouncing because I have to keep the speed up.
I changed gears almost 7 years ago. Way before eco hubs. If I had a choice today I would probably go eco hubs but I don’t have my old gears to reverse it and install eco hubs.
After a total of 12 months and 23,000 miles with 3.07 gears, average speed of 50-60 mph, never faster than 60 no matter terrain or road I get a consistent 6.5 mpg.
I’m at a similar position, I completely rebuilt the hubs last winter and now have to replace front axle housing outer seals. So this time when I have it apart I’m considering the front axle sleeve bushings, axle U- joints, pinion seal….
Those drawings don’t show that. The seal, thrust washer and sleeve are in the same order in both drawings. Indicating they go into the axle housing. If they went into the hub they would be in reverse direction.
Look closely that’s the same drawing just with the axle shaft. 59,60,61 are identical to 8,10,11 and identical part numbers. They are in the exact same order. So only 1 seal one thrust washer and one bushing sleeve. Per side not 2 on of each side.
I know exactly what you’re talking about. I’ve even had to cut them with a reciprocating saw and chisel them out. That doesn’t sound fun. Maybe have new ones on hand check tolerances and if needed then replace.
Any idea if the u joint is a common Dana / spicer part number?
Good point. Also most likely replacing #61 sleeve bushing. He insisted 2 on each side and sold me 4. I was there in person and he saw the problem and truck. Going to call and have him point it out to me on the drawing.
After replacing all the hub and CTIS seals last winter I have developed a leak in the front axle outer seal. Oil is dripping at the bottom of the passenger side king pin area.
Looks like #59 seal. Mid west says there are requires 2 at each end but I only see 1.
What’s the best way to replace...
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