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Thanks for watching!

Those are a great looking set. I really enjoy my pairing of the same basic vehicles.

This is a new one I think. As posted above each battery should have 14.4 volts with the engine running when measured separately or 28.8 volts when measured across. I suggest getting that measurement first. If one of them is not putting out 14.4 volts. Then you can separate it from the truck...

Once you get the card out, use a pencil eraser to clean the contacts on the printed circuit contacts. Just abrasive enough to clean without removing anything important.

I bolted a 1994 4L80E to the stock flex plate on one of my trucks. I remember at the time I was doing this the main thing was diesel torque convert to diesel 6.2 or 6.5 flex plate. You will need to swap out the internal wiring harness on a 1991 4L80E to the 1994 and newer plug for any...

I didn’t mention a small ledge you do have to mess with because the TM was linked already. You will not be removing the water pump from the engine. You will be removing the water pump backing plate that happens to have the water pump attached. Then you have to swap the backing plate over to the...

Super rope sure made that entire process easier. After the M715 as designed unfortunately.

The water pump is minor surgery. The timing chain is major surgery. Unless you have oil leaks from the front of the pan or balancer front seal. I suggest leaving the timing cover in place.

Exactly. Make sure the glow plug system is working, fuel in the tank, fuel coming out of the filter to the IP, pink wire attached and powered, both batteries fully charged and even better hooked to a charging source, don’t crank more than 20 seconds at a time and be patient. I have learned...

Is there a cutout of the cowling in front of the radiator? That bigger “cable” sized hole in the bed reminded me of a radio truck version of the M715. There was a cooler for the system that mounting in front of the radiator requiring the cowling to be cut. There are several pictures on the...

That mad driller really does resemble you Rory.

The light brown wire on the back of the alternator is for the STE/ICE plug under the dash to read RPM. The 3 resistors under the wiper motor are for radio interference with the military radio when using the wipers. You can unplug them and just plug directly into the motor.

The wire was pink back in the ‘80’s.

Without getting into opinions. I don’t believe I have ever seen a picture of a broken 6.2 crank without a bad/destroyed balancer also in frame. The same goes for bad/destoyed balancer pictures without a broken crank shown or mentioned.

Are the rear shoes adjusted properly? They set the pedal height.

The most popular 12 volt conversion is called the Roscommon conversion. They were a company in Michigan that did conversions. You should be able to find those instructions online. The Technical Manuals for the CUCV trucks can be found under the TM tab at the top of this page. The one ending...

A 6.5 center mount turbo, a 6.5 NA and a 6.2 all have the same basic engine design, cold starting assistance needs and engine architecture. So, if someone offers help and happens to write something besides 6.5 center mount turbo. Unless it is about the turbo itself, the help being offered is...

The 6.5 timing tab which looks to be at the 3 o’clock position on the timing cover needs a 30° offset for the timing tool. At least that is what I have found published. However, doing the math and comparing the 6.2 tab to the 6.5 tab. I think it should be 27° offset. Either value will get you...

The CUCV problem is probably more the fuse holder on that very bottom spot of the panel than anything else. Some of mine did the same thing until I cleaned that up. Now I would guess it has been over 10 years since I have blown any fuses or lost lights. I also installed the LMC headlight relay...

That looks good! I keep my vehicles on the 20 year repaint schedule. The M715 has another 3 to go and shows it.