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That's a nice plug for the charger, kind of pricey. I have the G7200 and even though it is only 3.5A @ 24v, it keeps my AGM's topped off with no problem. After driving the truck I hook the charger up and it takes no more than about 3-4 mins to bring the batteries up to 100% in AGM mode. I just...

You could test that piece with a file to see if it is heat treated before welding. That would be the biggest risk I guess of welding to it: annealing the steel and reducing strength? The frame rails are heat treated. I tried cutting a piece of frame with a portable band saw and it just ate the...

My truck had some floorboard damage at one time. The military guys riveted in a piece of aluminum plate and a bent piece to make the standoff. It isn't perfect but it works. If you do this, just don't make the standoff too tall or you will have to push the pedal down even further to get full...

I'll second that request for a build thread or more info. I'd like to see the radios/antennas and laptop mount. The M1079 would make a nice mobile shack for field day!

The one that Dave linked is for an A1 series truck, but yours is an A0. Just making sure you are aware so it doesn't confuse the issue for you. The blade fuses are fine to use permanently. The advantage of the breakers is that they can be reset vs. having to be replaced.

That might be an option. Thanks Matt!

Hmm...can you use both the Nord Lock and a lock nut? That does look interesting!

I called around today to a few different heavy truck shops. Apparently the tooling to install these is not widely used, probably due to pricing. Two places near me do have the huck gun, but one of them has been waiting for over a month for theirs to come back from repair. Both shops charge about...

Yeah in that thread they are referred to as Huck BobTail although I think they might be the Huck-Fit variety. I know they make a hydraulic gun to set them, but I was curious if anyone knew of a air gun that would do it. I may need to set a bunch of these and I have a good air compressor. If the...

Nice! That's pretty neat.

From previous discussions on here it looks like the "bolts" used on the frame are huck bolts. Do any of you know if they are the Huck-Fit bolts? Is there an air gun capable of setting them, or just the hydraulic one? Are these common enough that a heavy truck shop might have the tools to install...

You installed power windows and door locks? That sounds pretty interesting and I'd like to see how and what you used. Do you have a keyless entry remote, so that when you get out and hit the lock button it goes "chirp chirp"? :razz:

What if you removed the cross bars from the winch and made your own mount to give more clearance to the winch cable/drum? Then you could hard mount the winch and just have enough space above and below the drum to route the cable out either side. If you did that you could possibly mount the winch...

Forgot to ask, but what kind of trailer are you hooking up? If you get an LMTV trailer you can use that style cable, or the regular military style cable. The truck and trailer have both connections.

Not sure of a part number but I believe that one is a standard commercial trailer wiring plug like used on tractor trailers and some RV's? I'm not in front of my truck to verify, but I was thinking it was this kind of plug...

Not sure of a part number but I believe that one is a standard commercial trailer wiring plug like used on tractor trailers and some RV's?

Yeah that's an interesting idea, and you wouldn't need the 24v electric winch/hoist. I was just thinking of twist from rotating the crane around, but as long as you didn't go in circles it should be pretty minimal.

Theoretically I guess it could. The winch frame is open to the top so routing the cable out should be easy enough. For a jib crane I would be curious how much twist it would introduce. Interesting idea though!

Are you talking about a 12v trailer plug which will mate up to the 12v trailer outlet on the back of an FMTV?

Not sure what you mean by a rotating mount. The hydraulic winch setup has the drum close to the frame rail, with the hydraulic motor on the outboard side. The winch frame acts as bracing to the frame rail. With this setup the winch drum stays close to the frame and keeps the pull more in-line...