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Just PM me…seems you have violated some BS rule about asking a question that someone else was somehow forced to answer? But woke them from their slumber perhaps…

ok, well….the rear evaporator fan won’t run till the compressor runs, the front will run regardless because it’s also the heater blower motor. Run 24v direct to you blower motor to test it…

Alignment, bad pitman and idlers arms, loose or worn rod ends, ball joints….get all of it inspected.

have you verified the circuit breakers are still in the truck? I had a truck where they were pilfered. they are in the battery box rear wall, there are 2 Klixon breakers on a bracket…

Check the wiring behind the instrument cluster

your beater/evap blower is a Engel power wire and a ground…if it’s not blowing, make sure the wire is connected, it’s on the evaporator mid way down on the left side.

It senses the temp coming off the evaporator coil, this will turn off and on the compressor when running so your system doesn’t freeze up… The thermostat with the white label is Mfg discontinued, the gold label is the correct replacement…it fixes issue of the compressor Running before the Gen is...

You only have to remove the 4 bolts holding the GFD CV on the engine side attached to the crank pulley coupler plate…

The injectors have a Bosch or Delphi part number on them, that’s what you are after, you can’t install purple or orange banded injectors into your motor, those are for 6.5NA and Turbo motor

The left rear condenser fan relay is inside the rear evaporator, if the fans were stuck on, the relay is stuck, seen it happen before, it may fix itself or will need to replace it, the only way to kill it is what you did., the Right right fans in the condenser are for the front evaporator, that...

Soooo, you have an overheating motor and not a single mention of performing a cooling system test? Basics man, basics….you need a pressure system tester, the motor should be able to run for quite a bit before it gets to 220, its almost impossible to get the truck to temperature while just...

First off, that signal generator puts out wrong signal for any of the aftermarket trans controller, but you did say what controller you’re using. that generator is for STE/ICE, it’s a “K” band IIRC…anyway, in My shop, I’ve always used the H1 signal generator for the crank signal. perhaps post a...

Standard 50/50 green coolant, green is made for cast iron blocks

unless you have nothing but time? Pull the old harness and replace it…

the bias ply RF was a magnesium 2 piece, not a great idea, then the 2 piece rubber RF for the early 12 bolt rim, and finally the 1 piece RF we are all most accustomed to seeing, there is also as of recent a new aluminum 2 piece being used in the latest trucks.

I’d find a new AC shop….you can really see the correct pressures on the high and low side without the compressor running. The system should be evacuated and the appropriate 1.8lbs or 3.8lbs of r134a added back in, but understand, you can’t get that amount of refrigerant installed without the...

the transmission all electronic, you can’t Make it manual, unless you have a manual valve body, the 1-2 3-4 are solenoid operated, those shift commands come from the TCM, if the TCM tanks….your in limp mode.

Me thinks its from condensation build up, I’ve had a few that have been wet inside, the truck would literally have to be under water for quite some time with some of the water I’ve seen from inside some I’ve had here in the shop. That’s also the later model TCM from PCS, I prefer the shift...

I’ve had turbo chargers full to the top with water and no water in the engine…

the casing is meant to opened and serviced, the TCM itself “the older GM version” is meant to be upgraded…live a bit dangerously and bust out your screw driver.