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The yoke is the only difference….front and rear are different size, rear being larger.

You need brake line diagram for any and all A2’s, the brake line setup to the calipers is a hodge podge of numerous hard and soft lines as well as clips and brackets. Somewhere on eBay is a complete A2 brake line kit for the price of just one flexible brake line…at least used to be.

heres a novel concept…open it

Your box is bad…24v for 9 seconds, after glow last 2mins, an S3 smart start sends a constant 5VDC for 2mins, previous start boxes pulsed 24volts for 2mins. If you have 24v after wait light? Your new plugs are now smoked.

charging and output are 2 different things, but I’m sure you will disagree as you always do.

the reason for a voltage regulator is to regulate ouput, the regulator is calibrated to prevent any output voltage what the regulator is set for 27.5-28.5 for example….driving at high speeds or rpm’s won’t change the output of the generator

it’s not smaller to make it charge more, it’s smaller so there is a higher output at lower engine rpm’s

I guess you better listen to him…

the wire on The wire harness is the power feed to the circuit breaker used to power the Milemarker winch…

MM winch uses its own proprietary winch plate, that is an OEM front bumper plate

the new OEM radiators for ECV/REV are Aluminum, I’ve installed quite a few.…available from distributors.

not necessarily….I just had a truck with no codes and the brake switch was misadjusted…

the scanner plugs into the harness connector at the transmission, the scanner is plugged in parallel so your can take control or monitor what the TCM is doing.

yes, you Will get higher rpms if your TC is not locked up, your brake switch needs to be adjusted, I have a cheater cable I use to test my TC lockup, the 24v is always present on the connector, the switch opens and denies voltage to the TC solenoid, thus unlocking the TC when you come to stop.

Engine oil at every fill up…these older IDI diesels can burn quite a bit of oil, check belt tension while hood open, grab your fan blade and see if the WP shaft is failing, check the coolant level visually through the bottle with a flashligh…

4 letters come to mind….PMCS “preventive maint checks and services” I can’t stress to folks to perform post and pre-flight checks on these trucks.

That’s correct, but the old early version, you can move up to the Moog problem solver .. read Davids notes about applicatio: https://www.hummerpartsguy.com/PITMAN-ARM-STEERING-H1-MOOG-PROBLEM-SOLVER_p_5960.html

you bought a Chinese knock off

The prob with ECV/REV trucks Is the lower radiator hose is in the way, so the OEM MM and Warn kits changed it all up to move the affected components. I personally like the rear winch option as it’s easy to install and really just makes more sense From a recovery aspect.