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I agree with 98G, those are the LMTV/FMTV wheels so you shouldnt have trouble finding a home for those. People have made those fit the deuce also. PATRACY had some modified versions of those for a while that had a new flage welded in the center. I had made some adapters for a short time that...
Most MRAP wheels out there have an 11" center hole, those are the ones that can bolt onto a deuce using an adapter plate. There are some MRAP wheels that have a 5 ton bolt spacing and a center hole closer to 9" diameter.... those wheels will not bolt up to a deuce without some major...
I managed to get some pictures when I got home today. Unfortunately the pictures arent great since it was a 4 hand job to hold everything for the picture. Anyway when looking at the plug with the middle pin toward the bottom, the pin on the left is Positive, and the middle bottom pin is...
I'll try to figure that out in the next week. My truck is parked for the winter with a cover on it. Maybe I'll try putting a worklight on the solar panel and take a volt meter to the pins on the wire connector that plug into the "push to test" box. Perhaps someone in a warmer climate can check...
I got them off some old equipment at work we were scrapping. It can all be bought from McMaster.com but there are cheaper ways to do it also. Check eBay or somewhere for 1/4" push to connect manifold, or 1/4" tube manifold, or 1/4" instant fitting manifold.
Here is how I did mine: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?108671-PEASHOOTER-s-M109A3-CAMPER-Build-Thread&p=1546640&viewfull=1#post1546640
Here is some info from valence with part numbers: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?53062-Axle-Vent-Anatomy&p=1700085&viewfull=1#post1700085
I don't have the stock info handy. There are only a few thing in life that I'm 100% certain in and this isn't one of them, sorry. I found these while comparing the stock dimensions to other part numbers available with only difference being length.
you are 100% sure these things are good? I thought mine were good (had cleaned them previously too). But one time I loosened one and heard a "pssst" sound. After that I took them all out and ran separate vent lines up to the firewall..... it solved my leaky hub problem and leaking transfer case...
Lino, Here are some pictures and measurements of the larger compressor I got that has the base oil feed option (midland KN13060) Others that should have the bottom feed oil option are: Bendix 279356 (279356x), 227320 (227320x), 283690 (283690x), midland EL13060 (EL13060x), KN13060.
It looks...
Nicely done as usual! I finally got around to looking up your signature's latin quote and be live it fits you well. "I shall either find a way or make one."
After I ordered the Tu-flo 550 I realized that series didn't have the base oil option, the TU-flo 500 series has a couple though. I was able to find a Midland KN13060 for $100 off eBay (from Saturn surplus of all places). This one has the base oil option on it so the oil inlet hole is the same...
Yeah, I don't think it will have the bottom feed oil port either. Perhaps I can machine the bottom feed oil port into the compressor casting or make a spacer plate with a drilled path that can route the oil to the edge of the plate and then a tube from the plate to the compressor.
I think...
Well Lino, you got me pretty excited about this. I ended up buying a new Bendix Tu-Flo 550 (4 hole basemount version) off of ebay for cheap. I'll give it a go also. Its 13.2cfm and looks like the big brother to the twin cylinder compressor I had on my truck originally (7.4cfm).
Fingers Crossed!
That is the breather/exhaust vent. It should leak out air but not fluid.If it's spitting out fluid then one of your airpaks has an issue and needs a rebuild.
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