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Hmmm isn’t there an outlet check valve? I am thinking that this thing should go to at atmospheric pressure every time the governor unloads and commands the purge. if it is shut down while the compressor is online the only pressure that should be able to leak away is the air in the dryer case...

all kinds of ways to control a pacbrake, a floor mounted foot switch I suspect you simply Press sw = brake on, release sw=brake off. It could also be tied to the brake light circuit so enough brake pedal to turn on the 5PSI brake light switch rolls on the ex brake valve. I liked the config...

Well I start by listening in a quite place, don’t, forget the vents on the front brake QR, rear relay and the pedal vent up behind the dash. Listen in on the glad-hands also. Then I feel every line fitting and vent for any moving air. Then I bubble mix every fitting And valve body, don’t...

How long does your shop air compressor hold air:) if everything is sealed and working properly it should hold air a long time…

Yep, garbage in, garbage out…

That snot much of a goal, just fix all your leaks…:)

Yea the park springs should start to engage brakes ~60-65PSI with the brake force increasing steadily as the pressure drops. The rate of application will depend on how fast the air is leaking…. The springs can supply about 50% of the brake force that full pedal can apply to the rear axle… as...

The manual has all kinds of inconsidtencies😁

~85 sounds right for the lmtv gauge sensors. 66 Is the industry standard/FMVSS required minimum low brake indicating pressure. The pressure setpoint for the sw in the pressure sensors is ~85, and thats where mine used to alarm. This makes your alarm a little more sensitive than most air brake...

Mine had a long spider leg or a horse hair(camel hair?) lodged in it when I got it… probably the most common issue why they won’t move fuel, but they work pretty well when they are working…

The only difference between a 12v relay and a 24v relay is the coil resistance. In their correct circuits they develop ~ the same wattage and produce ~ the same amount of heat. when you put a 24 in a 12 circuit depending on your voltage drops and the actual relay specs, it may or may not...

I seem to recall helping a guy taking a truck to AK troubleshoot. Had a couple of electrical issues, kept blowing fuses…

So do you see a volt drop in the cab during the clunk?

Correct, or those items may drop offline unexpectedly. what did the 24V do at the cab test points while you pushed the start button? the first issue I had with a LMTV was this one. Pushed the button and it went clunk, or clunk and click,click,click from the dash relays as long as the button...

The relay near the power steering is the aux start relay. This is the old school way of dealing with the flyback voltage from the start solenoid which is part of the starter where the + cable is attached. the aux relay closes a circuit and applies 24v to energize the solenoid on the starter...

Sorry, i got you confused with 2 different tests. Lets just stick with voltage tests. Test 1: 24V battery voltage at the + and - battery posts while you push start. Tests if battery can handle the load. Probably should NOT go below 10V If not OK, work on getting a battery that will not fall...

Well the trans display going dark indicates it is dropping voltage. Did you get a chance to check 24v at the cab test points while you pushed the start button. It also makes a difference where the leads are connected. IE, if you are connected to the battery clamp on the battery and not...

Yes you would connect to the large + and - leads at the solenoid and the front of the starter motor where the main ground strap is located. What general said IRT the load test. pushing the start button is a load test, just not a full capacity one, but it satisfies the basic requirement...

throw a voltmeter on the GND and 24V test points in the cab and watch it when you push the button. You can do the same thing at the starter solenoid(+) and starter motor(-) connections and observe it when you push the start button. What does the trans display do when you push the button?

If you don’t have the remote valve, I suspect that line on the wet tank output is indeed for the AOP supply. The primary and secondary/rear and front systems are separated(required by Fed motor vehicle safety standards, FMVSS). Those one way checks on their inlet are supposed to keep them that...