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It won't hurt cleaning up the internals. Sometimes its external buildup due to lack of use, settling of crankcase humidity mixed with oil residues, etc. Just let us know what comes of the freehand test on the rack movement first.

By removing it from the block and soaking it in carb cleaner. Its not terribly difficult. Get well clear of the outage and tackle it then when you have a few days.

I would undo the linkage from the rotating arm on the block, and see if the spring freely pulls closed. Then articulate it fully open, and see if it naturally snaps back closed. If it doesn't, I would start to suspect a sticky metering pump (and possibly not the solenoid). Do you have access...

You can choose to desolder whats there and use all new... or just use a black cap on a grey housing (which I have done countless times) and move on with life :)

Well I think they will be under the 10A trip if they just want to power a fridge. Aren't they wonderful? Worth their weight when you need one, especially for an extended outage.

Your genset only puts out 6.25KVA... only so unloaded it can become. If they just want to keep the fridge and freezers cold, it will be minimal draw... not enough to really worry about overloading one leg or the other... especially since you aren't running it this way weeks on end. ACs are a...

Well you are limited to 10A through the convenience outlet, so they have to be aware of that. A perfect device for just such an occasion is called a spider box. https://www.toolup.com/CEP-6532UGMX-Mini-X-Treme-Box-30A-UG-Temporary-Power-Distribution-8-Outlet You could just lop the connector...

You will need to check all connections, it shouldnt be blowing if everythings hooked up right. In the future, you can use something called a spider box, to do exactly what you want, with more versatility. An example...

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BK-ABC-30-R?qs=St27ATL478s0HesTffljHg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bussmann-Eaton/BK-HKP-R?qs=jGANiKWBgcgdglko7ruoNg%3D%3D&countrycode=US&currencycode=USD

Does your voltage gauge register, or is that also not working?

Take the hard line on the problem cylinder, off the metering pump and see if its pumping fuel while running. If it is, as Ray points out, look to the injector next. That can also be tested installed, but removed from the head with the hard still attached. You will want to figure out what isnt...

Got (2) of these pigs to bring home. I am currently in between trailers, so weighing my options. Anyone looking to haul north for a price?

Well for starters its a lot of mass that requires removing sheet metal to access to unbolt and shift with a lift. The position of the engine and head, unless reset, should be where it left the factory. The sheet metal misalignment is far more likely in the case... especially if you have taken...

https://www.zoro.com/hubbell-30a-watertight-twist-lock-receptacle-3p-4w-125250vac-hbl2710sw/i/G3119706/ . Put it in your cart for a few days and if you don't buy... you will likely get a 10-15% off coupon in your inbox. The item # is slightly different than the one on his yellow box. Thats the...

I would loosen the bolts of the enclosure to shimmy shift all of that, before you would catch me changing the position of the head and prime mover.

I would agree, sounds pretty classic dead VR. Kurt (the chap who responded to you) makes an awesome upgraded VR that you will never have to think about again.

A lot of box store gensets and similar documents have much of that same non-information. They aren't really looking to have them be user serviceable, and do so by lacking real information.

Shared on FB in a Generator Tech group I am a part of. :ROFLMAO:

I know you knew that, it was for the OP (or anyone else who stumbles into this thread in the future).

In a pinch you can steal the auxilliary fuel pump behind the fuel tank cover, and use in place of the primary.