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Just to confirm your question was answered directly (it was over the replies that followed), but that's the diagnosis steps for the engine only. If you take the sender and all other accessories out of the picture... its a mechanical oil pump. If you have pressure issues in this engine, with that...

So in basic terms, there are two basic sets of manuals. There is a set for the entire machine, and a set for the engine only. Ending -10 are the 'Operating' instructions - how it functions, what each part does, etc. Good one to read through as an owner Ending -24 are the 'Technical...

From what Dewie has told me in the past, the engines may have shipped in with break in oil... but as soon as they were factory received they dumped for fleet oil and out the door. I assume its at the depot level only that the reman engines get the break in. I assume field work does not receive...

If you are only getting 19V, I suspect its bad batteries. If the alternator was output tested and is shown as working, its your cells as its highly unlikely (though not impossible) that you have line loss on the DC circuit. I would take the batteries out and have them load tested at an auto...

Hit the -24TM for the machine to start testing (the zero dollar first approach): LOW OIL PRESSURE Step 1. Check for improper lubrication oil. a. If proper lubrication oil, do Step 2. b. If improper, drain oil and refill with proper lubrication oil (TABLE 2–3), Replace oil filter in accordance...

Here is what I go on, that tells me the reset units do in fact get break in oil. The tag hanging from the E-stop is typically torn off, but only the zip tie remains.

Isn't it great to know the truth?

Yeah you are right, the amperage is much higher on the alternator itself. Maybe @Dewie38 can shed some light on the topic.

I believe the regulator on these alternators is rated at 4A, so if you use a NOCO 5A x 2 Bank unit... it should suffice to keep the machine along in a dead alternator situation https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G3STB1N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thats what I use. I...

This what you saw? https://www.ebay.com/itm/202054904201?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&srsltid=AfmBOoqUnP7iRvTEwtq6DzuNww_6lJBCARrh_d2Rk99hMZIq4l-tdspMNPw

It was that high sustained because your starting cells (ie batteries) needed it. I would keep an eye on them, if they aren't new.

No one?

I'm surprised I havent gotten a single response.

The Miata battery is only 320CCA. The NAPA AGMs are 500CCA Miata - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7581R 51R - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT9851RT The most used option by myself on customer machines: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7551R If you buy online today (and pick up...

Group 51R, best you can afford

Do you see the cast iron hold downs that keep the metering pumps in place on the side of the engine? Very similar concept to what's up top for the injectors. You will want to take the roof off over the engine for this. The screws over the radiator and elsewhere screw into captive nuts, just...

Was it the stock line? I replace the OEM garbage line with this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/safety-stripe/gates-safety-stripe-fuel-hose/gats/27000?q=27000 Buy a package of new 1/8" plastic vacuum tees (in case the ones in your machine show signs of age/brittleness) and replace them...

Looking to see if anyone in the greater area might be able able to help me out with something. I know this is an odd post for this area, but my question is related to people who are familiar with the 80X machines. A private message from anyone who might be in the area, and willing to assist...

There are multiple variations of the TMs, with different trailing numbers (-10, -24, -24p, etc). They all house different pertinent info. Happy to explain the differences if you aren't aware. Won't repeat what you already know, if you do. :)

Genset must be worth every penny right now :)