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It will come back to the square style Facet with that number: https://greenmountaingenerators.com/product/mep802a-mep803a-new-24v-fuel-pump-facet-40193/ Don't use it, unless you have to. They are a notoriously failure prone pump. The Airtex E1074 is discontinued (the round style). I and other...

Heres what the TM comes back to: MPN 40193

Does your machine have the square Facet style, or the round Airtex style?

I don't believe that's even a stock 804b setup, so I don't think anything will be a direct cross here.

When new you got two floppy individual terminal covers (one red, one black) and one molded plastic sheet that covers both. They are all highly annoying, but do provide arcing protection from dropped tools. With that said, you will not find any in my personal machine. Nor will you find radiator...

My wife has told me I have an olive drab mistress named 'gen' so maybe we aren't that far off? :rolleyes:

180* is right... take 190 with a grain of salt. Its probably performing properly. If you notice any issues though with temp creep, suspect the thermostat may need to be replaced. ~6250 should be 100% (26AX240VX1.0PF). It it produces 5KW reliable everthing is fine. If it holds 6300W, everthing...

Taking my son to the bus stop this morning. I've got most of an 802 in my bed, in pieces. Walking him down to the bus the driver remarked 'you putting together a generator'? A short discussion ensued... turns out he was a gen mechanic in the Army back in the day. I knew he was prior service...

You can't parallel the 80x sets like the 10x0 AMMPS, with this box or without. I don't believe you will need to cage these like tractor Haldex cans. Its an air over hydraulic system, and if memory serves these free wheel with the air unhooked.

Probably the same guy(s) who cut the return lines right at the oil drain...

Non OEM: https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5559/SP-1890-60-Hertz-Control-Converter-MEP-Engine-Driven-Electric-Generator-2A016-4A032-4A084

Its in the operator cube, back wall.

The OEM unit isn't, but I shared a source a while back on a relatively inexpensive alternate. Milspec, for a diff machine... But works well in place. Just need to modify mounting holes slightly. Searching in the forum should uncover it.

Could be the gauge, could be the freq transducer (which I believe is more prone to failure than the gauge).

So the switch is doing what its supposed to... You are going to want to take the roof off the operator cube and look at the contactor assy for loose collections, corrosion, etc. Its a known problem spot, but typically can be disassembled, deoxidezed, and made to work again (unless waters gotten in).

Yes. Does the green light above it come on when you close the circuit, or does it stay off?

Dumb question, but have you told the machine to send voltage down to the lugs?

The pump is a pretty simple impeller... you will know if its working or not once you've taken it off. I would assume its fine. For the price, you can get just the pump to cylinder head gasket (with o rings for the sleeve that goes into the block) here...

I'd just find the longest standard bolt on jack you can find, and use large U bolts with some square or rectangular steel tubing to make braces below the main deck frame, that you can mount a new leg onto to cheat some length. Maybe something like this...

Available. I do have a spare engine I can sell with this for an additional $250.