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These are what we’re provided to me when I asked the same…(2nd pic is just zoomed in)
Hope it’s works! I may be interested in (4) adapters depending on your cost!!! HAHA
Thanks! Yes I do. I just hooked up a water cooler to the tig machine last week; what a difference being able to have longer beads/duty cycles for thicker material. Lately it’s been mostly aluminum stuff, but I had some stainless tube and angle to weld up today.
If it works; it works!!!
Unfortunately I was glued to the tig welder at work all day, so I only managed to “clean” up the outside from spilled fluid. I may venture out to the garage here in a bit; but it’s cold out haha
*here’s some stainless scrap I practiced/set up my machine on before a customers project. Two...
@banditt1979 Sorry to go back a page or two, but when you rebuilt your master cylinder, did you hone it out? Or just a “basic” parts swap rebuild? Any tips or advice? I gotta pull mine out tonight as it’s leaking behind the boot. I already have a rebuild kit at the house.
I always install one or two of these in a 24v vehicle; cheap and easy…
DC Voltage Regulator Buck Converter DC 24V to DC 12V 10A 120W Step Down Reducer Power Converter Mini Module Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6X6L89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DEXB62P6KD0YZQGBNJVF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
450-500? That’s LOW, max temps in my opinion are up around 1000*. Now I wouldn’t want that all the time, but I tend to cruise up around 750-900*, and idles around 275-290 when up to temp.
I bypassed for two reasons, more consistent fuel delivery, and to stop the possibility of a fuel leak into the oil.
It’s not so much it gives more fuel, but sets the delivery at a solid set point. Which with most engines will be set “high” hence you need to turn down the fuel. My egt climbed...
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