Search results

Thanks for the props guys. For my needs/use, 12 volts just made sense. Now here's quick question, I am going to buy new starter bolts and found the AC Delco made ones but a quick search also found that ARP makes starter bolts. The ARP ones are way stronger (and I would trust being very high...

Check the wire at the trans to make sure when you have the pedal switch under the dash engaged, you have 12 volts at the plug. If you are getting 12 volts at the plug, then something is wrong with the kick down switch inside the trans. Could be a wire came loose or something more but verify...

Hummm... good point. They are heavily stressed bolts, I think I will get a new set and swap them. Luckily that is easy to do, one at a time. Thanks for the thought. Kind of new to the diesel world and in the gas engine world, I have never had an issue with starter bolts but I'm also not...

I got it from Quality Power Leece Neville 4800 Series Alternators and it's the Leece Neville 4800-4900 series type alts. They offer a number of option. I went with a 200 amp, dual rectifier, ignition triggered setup, which is the same as Leece Neville 4860JB if I recall. I checked on brand...

Well, actually it depends on the system and I made more of a general comment versus a specific to this generation GM vehicle. Some systems put the valve into the MC (two pistons with a spring) and some on in a combo valve. Both ways basically work the same but the combo valve also has a switch...

Actually that is not correct. Most all OEM systems use the rear reservior to feed the front brakes and the front reservior to feed the rear brakes. It has to do with the piston inside the MC. Most dual reservior systems apply the front brakes slightly before the rear, since weight is being...

Actually that is part of my future plans. I was looking at the idea of one alt/battery bank to run the engine/cab portion and another alt/battery bank to run the house systems. I would have a method of connecting the two systems, whether I need addition amps from the alts or starting power...

So in my other thread regarding checking the 24 volt system and the DUVAC, I found the upper alternator was bad and only putting out 10-11 volts and that assumes the DUVAC is actually working, which there is really no test for those. For my use, I have zero need for any 24 volt system and the...

This seems weird to picture. If a thief was going through a neigbors house and was caught in the act, if he fled and hopped into your truck and drove away, how did he get it started quick enough to get away? Were the keys left in it? Most thiefs making a getaway, after being caught in the...

Not likely since the vacuum source (i.e. vacuum pump) is not directly plumbed into the engine, so it would never be burnt and hence no white smoke.

Nice work. I had the exact same problem with my trans not shift unless at high RPM. After I replaced all of the vacuum lines and verified I was getting 8" of vaccum at the point where the trans modulator is, figured it was the modulator that was bad. Quick trip to NAPA, $16 and 20 minutes...

The glow plug stuff was already converted to run via the 12 volt system before I got it. At this point the only thing really running 24 volts is the starter and I ordered that with the new alt. That will be an easy item to take care of. I'll post up parts availability as I remove stuff.

My first guess would be overdrive.

Okay, it had been done. Ordered a Leece Neville 4860JB, 200 amp 12 volt alt and 12 volt starter (all new parts). This will be a great starting point and then if the need/want to add a second alt, I can order another one and put it parallel to add redundancy to the system. I will document this...

Thanks Ian for the info. Given everything and our needs, I think the 12 volt conversion is the way to go in the long run. Cry now and not later. Sure don't want to be in the middle of nowhere and have the equalizer die and strand us. As I remove stuff, I'll let you know and we can work...

I will very likely have a LOT of parts off of this. Most everything in the box, including the rear doors is likely getting removed/replaced. The big challenge would be cost of shipping... unless you came out to sunny SoCal to pick them up. 8) On your Edit2, I am not quite sure I understand...

Not really concerned with the A/C in the box since we don't do desert camping in the summer. I am actually thinking I will use the factory compressor and use something like Vintage Air to put A/C in the cab, where we might need it more (most of our camping is fall thru spring). I am looking at...

Thanks for confirming what I thought I should be getting at the actual alt terminal. 10-11 volts is definitely not right for a 28 volt alt (per the regulator marking). Nice looking rig!!! What size lift and tires are on that beast? I have been looking at engine/trans swaps too but for now...

Yeah, I think it might have been one of your posts that mentioned the fuse for the gauges, hence why I checked all of the fuses. I specifically pulled that one and doubled checked it with a meter and used a test light on all the others. I had even thought the Gen lights might be the problem if...

Okay, more testing and to answer markg questions. I checked all the fuses yesterday and I get power thru all of them (used a test light and checked both sides of the fuse). Rear battery alone = 14.8 volts, both batteries = 27.4 volts. I did pull the regulator and found it was on the medium...