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its correct, the new pump should have a mark as well.

the simplest way I tell folks is, “the only thing for certain on a hmmwv is everything is uncertain” model years vs SN range accessories unit markings MWO’s mods armor The list goes on, 4 of those are driven at the unit level, meaning local Cmdr authorized.

my point was people posting model year as if that had a bearing on what PCB,EESS or Smart start they might have in the truck, even your “yellow label” does say which Mfg you have, Your observations are based on ? One truck you own or owned? Mine are based on trucks arriving every day into the...

Model year of your truck means Absolutely nothing as the model year doesn’t mean you have an S3 EESS installed. older trucks have old PCB’s and yellow label KDS and Nartron boxes….99% of M1123’s have Yellow Nartron EESS. newer turbo trucks have been consistently running S3, as they should.

As I’ve stated on several occasions, Melton rebuilds removed the drain tube and installed a rivet in the hole. the concept of the drain is great, unfortunately it becomes clogged with the first leaf that ends up in the valley, you guys are killin yourselves over mostly nothing, the water will...

We do these conversions in the shop, we stock all the parts required to do the conversion, feel free to reach out.

This has been covered a hundred thousand times…but here goes. All boxes prior to S3 EESS pulse 24v for 2mins after start up, upon the introduction of the S3 EESS, it is now a constant 5 vdc for 2min, not observable on the voltage gauge.

P400 was never a full production motor, as my distributor told me, they don’t even make an OEM oil dipstick for the motor. They are Mfg discontinued…the issue for any owner will be is if you ever need any parts for the motor that are P400 specific, your SOL.

Pictures are worth a 1000 words. Sounds as if the truck is exactly as it came from the auction after sitting for 10yrs. knowing what I know about these trucks, I would be extremely cautious.

you need to move the plunger and spring over to the new pump

Load ratings..they are D or E

really makes no difference if it’s D or E unless your truly running armor on your truck, all the warnings about mismatching load ranges is because of the armor, maybe too if your running an M1152 and actually using it for its design.

They probably fixed whatever problems they had if they are true 2021 mfg, but I was told they no longer make them, they are now the “Enforcer” which is ugly as sin, I only run BFG, zero issues

they don’t explode after a few years…side wall cracking is a major problem, enough that even GP has a notice on listings. The mold design for the side wall is bad.

So, don’t worry, this website has sponsors who have been found by the US Govt to have sold Chinese parts to The US Govt under the auspices of being US made, unfortunately it seems money is more important than selling US mfg’d parts for these trucks, regardless of if it’s for us or the US...

The #2 intake manifold bolts on the front to back, back to front bolts get a sealant…they pass into the intake or exhaust area, they are not captive. hope that makes sense. But, the 4 longest bolts could use something as the water rests on the manifold and eventually gets to the block. I do a...

That is correct, the purpose is to press against the inner race.

the filler neck rubber is notorious for failure after year of having Fuels sit in the hose and soften it up, the clamps loosen up and you have leaks. I probably do a fuel tank once a month, never seen the top plate leaking it’s always a filler neck issue, you will see cracking on the exposed...

well, it’s actually needed there to engage the oil pump via the cam shaft…

ok, and once again…99% of my family never painted anything, it was known to my entire male side of the family that PC was hereditary, probably why they ask on every medical screening if your family has a history?