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CARC is when it was painted CC:E was last “condition code” assigned to truck Serviceable material which requires test, alteration, modification, conversion or disassembly. This does not include items which must be inspected or tested immediately prior to issue. E. Unserviceable limited restoration.

I’ve used that same pump to de-fuel tanks from the fuel sender hole when the tank is full, once it can’t get anymore, I just pull the plug.

never Reuse a tank plug, they will just leak.

5 gal buckets and pull the tank plug…

you have to drain the tank, 10 gallons of fuel is heavy as hell.

I though someone mentioned some time ago about jeep wiper motors.

you Would have to move the switch to how its installed on a turbo truck…moved to throttle cable bracket and uses a cam bracket

that’s the internet for ya…late 242

your welcome to do it anyway you like, I do maybe a Tank every month, drop the DS, drop the rear rotor protection, disconnect the fuel line from the frame rail lines, remove the fuel filler, remove the vent lines, remove the straps, slide the tank down at the rear and slide it backwards and...

there is no reason to disconnect the hard lines to drop a fuel tank…the only trucks that don’t have an access panal are A0-A1, but a kit was developed to install the panal, which can be done with the tank still in the truck.

Removing the fuel tank is the same on every truck regardless of model….I just did an M1123 last week.

yes…

cold advance is automatic, no need to touch the pedal to se anything. The CA expires at 120, it’s controlled by the CA thermostatic switch on the right rear head. also turn up your idle to about 675-700, they idle better.

First off, that spraying injector is allowing air into the system, hence the rough idle, as well as incomplete fuel being introduced into the combustion chamber. The loud clacking is normal for a cold NA 6.5, this goes away after the cold advance expires, it’s also louder if you have an over...

wrong belt or your routed wrong….

if you didn’t remove the additional positive and negative cables required of 400amp and did not change out the Gen/PS bracket, than you had a 200amp. Buy a new correct length belt…

Never in 10yrs on this site seen any such thing, nor any site I’ve been on for H1 or hmmwv.

What model truck is this?

here is the correct belt you need 12469149-3 Did you previously have a 400amp? Or have you always had the 200amp with clutch pulley?

casting by Navistar, it’s a GEP motor