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Are you getting a dirty white smoke out the pipe while it is shaking and trying to wake up? That is usually an indication of not enough heat inside the combustion chamber. The glow plugs are supposed to glow before start up, which it reads like yours do just fine, then glow some more after...

The wipers have a weak motor from the factory. The longer the wiper blades, the slower they go. One trick is to look at your wiper motor under the hood and see if the 3 wires go through resistors before the motor. If so, bypass the resistors. It is a simple plug and play thing. It might help...

Figured that was your plan but wanted to ask. Just look up the part numbers for flexplate and converter that go into a 1988 or 1989 6.2 Suburban 1/2 ton. That should give you the right ones.

It is your truck to do as you wish. Why are you swapping? I ask because with the 3.08:1 axle gears a deep overdrive like the 700R4 really doesn't do you any good unless you are over 75-80 mph. There is a diesel torque converter that the 700R4 used with the 6.2. The flexplate I believe is...

The Dakota Digital interface works great. I have it on two of my vehicles. I have seen the clamp around the alternator method used on a few M1009's as well. They all need to be calibrated.

I thought I answered this on Sunday. But, I don't see my reply. Hooking it up like Keith just wrote about is part one of your job. Then, you get to calibrate it which he also wrote about. There is also an clamp on pressure sensor that can be used to get an rpm signal through a timing light...

I have tube less trailer radial tires on my M416. One of them leaks down about 2 psi per month. The other I haven't had to put air in for 5 years now. Yes, you can run radial tubes in a radial tire if that is your choice over tube less.

Sign me up please.

When you pull the torque converter cover off. Put a wrench on all the torque converter to flexplate bolts and verify they are tight. That is a common problem. If they are tight then look real close at the flexplate for cracks.

Hot Rod was among a few magazines I waited for eagerly each month to learn about vehicles way back when. Since the DB2 injection pump retards the timing as RPM’s increase. Due to diesel fuel igniting faster as pressure and temperature increase. Increasing the temperature of the fuel will have...

Interesting idea. I had a bell ringing in my head that I had heard it before While reading the above post. I had: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-1009-what-ever-happened-to-smokeys-hot-vapor-engine/ This engine raised the temperature of the air and doesn’t mention the fuel. Same basic...

I think the Tach and speedometer cables are held on with nuts that a 5/8" open end wrench will break loose. Laying down and looking up will let you get them loose the first time. Then just hand tighten them so next time will be very easy. Be nice to the air psi hose moving the panel around...

I have to ask. Have you followed the steps in the -20 TM for diagnosing electrical problems? That is really the bible for these vehicles and is right on. Start where it starts with two fully charged and load tested batteries. Then, follow the steps in the -20. There is a tool called a Power...

Do you know about the screwdriver test to check timing on the 6.2? With the engine warm and running. Put a large screw driver against the advance arm on the lower passenger side of the IP. Push the arm in. Then you have to figure out if is now running better/louder, worse or just kind of not...

Just to re state that every engine is different. I have 4 6.2 or 6.5 engines that get driven just about daily. Each one starts different, sounds different and for sure runs down the road different. German and agriculture diesels have a precise tooth to tooth alignment for the camshaft to...

You have found the black hole of 6.2/6.5 Diesel engine tuning. There are no published numbers from the manufacturer to do a static timing set up, GM never put out timing specs or timing methods. Snap-On, Kent-Moore and Ford all made a timing/rpm reading machine that works on the engine. Yet...

Are you stock or with a turbo? Stock you could probably step it up to 5° or even 6° advanced. I haven't pushed my turbo motor more advanced that 3° yet. Notice that your chart is for clamp on sensor timing. Not lumy probe. Put the probe as close to the injector as you can get it. The DB2...

You don't really need that part. The probe holder is supposed to be 9.5° offset from the 0° or TDC notch on the timing tab. I just held a tape measure up to one and it is about 1/2 inch from the 0° notch to the middle of the timing probe holder. How are you going to get a timing signal? I...

Something is routed wrong then. Air from the compressor goes to the tanks under the bed. Then air is let into the airpack when you develop enough brake hydraulic pressure to cause a valve to open. That pressurized air pushes on a piston which adds to the hydraulic pressure of the brakes...

Factory is more in the middle and up high. Attached is a picture of my serpentine belt Sanden compressor mounted where the CUCV alternator would be with the Banks turbo visible below it and away from the engine some. I had a belt driven vacuum pump there for a while with no clearance issues...