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Normal green is A-OK. If you need a block valve I should have one as a takeoff.

I use this brand for my pullers, very heavy duty (have a few different sizes): https://www.posilock.com/product-category/manual-pullers/2-and-3-jaw-manual-pullers/ I would replace the bearing at the same time, for certain. Cheap insurance.

The part numbers are helpful. Only issue is there no stock anywhere in the world on either part currently, and the minimum order is 900 :poop: Maybe there are equivalents out there.

Listen, I think that modification was done to try to increase HP. If the mounting point is stationary, your HP is fixed... if you can speed up your mounting point, its gotta make like... +10HP. Faster is better, right? :sneaky:

I don't know for certain, but definitely looks like 400hz flight line equipment.

The gauge is for operator reference only, and does not control the coolant overtemp fault... So while I would also want it to read true on my machine, do know that the safety stop is separate from the readout.

There is a -24 for the complete machine, and one for the engine alone.

And if you don't want to make your own, you can just buy some (these are knockoffs): https://www.ebay.com/itm/153426884129 OEM can be found here: https://shop.cummins.com/CSSNAStore/s/product/a2w4N000003sOgtQAE/onan-exhaust-manifold-gasket-1866206 You may be able to find the Lister Petter...

Specifically which TMs have you referenced? I ask because are you aware that there are TM sets just for the engine? Complete genset TMs and engine TMs exist (and for good reason). I think the info you are looking for is found in ARMY TM 92815-252-24

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/installed-mechanical-oil-pressure-gauge-on-mep-803a.178509/

A mechanical gauge can also be added at the oil pressure sender... I did it on my machine, based off info in this forum. Under $100 for all parts, including the gauge (precovid)... knowing for certain your pressure is a no brainer investment to me.

It looks to me that the rivets on the tag have been replaced... so that data plate is probably from a wrecked machine and put on to keep the inventory guys happy (there are wear indications on all four corners of each data plate in question). You may find small stickers on sheet metal panels...

Problem is none of these off the shelf items have been ruggedized, the constant NVH of a running machine is the biggest thing to contend with.

Any progress?

Did you dump/flush the cooling system as part of bringing this online? Very well might just be a stuck thermostat... you have no idea how long the machine was sitting before you acquired it.

If you can only hit 60% of rated load with everything you have in your home and garage powered up... You might actually be better suited with an 802. 803s are nicer, and more desirable (and very well may last longer as the 4 cylinder is a smoother runner than the angry twin) but its too big...

530a on the coast of Maine may be as nice of a middle of the night shot you may be able to find. Just beyond the salt marshes and line of homes in the distance is the shore. 😁 Taken about a half hour ago

And to a statement above, the fuel gauge is not the driver of the low fuel light. That's driven by the double float aux fuel assembly in the tank. It could be bad, misadjusted, hungup, etc.

Yes its not the MOV that you need to do ASAP, but the quad fuse modification. The MOV is a pennies upgrade at the same time as the fusing is of much greater importance.

Ive been up an hour, 624A here ;)