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What is that gizmo clamped on the steering column? Trailer brake lever?
Full throttle in mine at highway speed pegs the 15 PSI gauge... I must be getting 20 PSI of boost. It slams the needle if I floor it from 2200 RPM. I wish my gauge was like a 0-25 or so. It would be an oddball gauge though...
Oh I agree. I have been taking mine on longer trips lately and it does gobble up a lot of time. i just look at it too how much does it cost to get the extra 5-8 mph out of the truck? If I was going to do anything it would be Tom's overdrive kit. I think that is the best bang for the buck for me...
All this talk about getting a deuce going high speed... I hit 50 MPH the other day and was turning just about 2300. just thought i would brag that up. (joking). but then i slowed it back down to 2200 and 48mph... thats just about the sweet spot for me. Cranking the engine to 2600 just to get 4...
Don't forget to check the engine oil! My truck is fairly good, but I know my truck inside and out and could almost tell you where the fluid levels are in every part of the truck right now. Doghead isn't trying to beat up on you, just want to make sure everybody stays safe out there. Keep on...
Here is the information on the data plate:
So to find the watts of the system, we multiply the volts x amps = watts. so... 28 x 6.5 =182 watts. If it is on the low setting that would be half the voltage, so it would be 91 watts of power. The original spec'ed out resistor that I had before was...
How did you make out with your parking brake? Did you have another set of eyes look at it? Sometimes that helps me out. We all miss the little things from time to time and asking for help is sometimes the best thing. Keep us updated.
Thanks for your help Jerry. It would be good to know and we could also test the blower motor in your M925A2 which would have been the same motor as mine, but you have the newer Napa replacement. It would be good to figure out. This resistor is just made to disperse heat in stagnate air of the...
Mine was a direct replacement... mounted just like the original. My motor seems to run just fine so I am not sure what could have made it burn out. I need to actually test it to make sure that is the problem, but it only works on high and the resistor looks crispy. So I am taking a guess that is...
Maybe somebody with more electrical experience can help me with this question: If too much heat was generated with the 5 ohm / 50 watt resistor (same specs as factory), would a 4 ohm /50 Watt resistor generate less heat (since heat was probably the cause of the failure)? I am wondering if i can...
Update: My heater quit working on low and I looked under my dash with a flash light and saw the resistor was a little crispy and I suspect that it is the reason my heater fan is not working on low. I don't understand because it is the same Ohm value and watt rating as the original. This could be...
The only problem I see with the front air bag experiment is that the weight on the front axle usually is always the same. that is why they don't really put airbags on front axles. Why cant you just put more leaves in the front suspension again... or have the springs re-arched? I love your truck...
I would go after the hydraulic head o-rings first. They like to flatten out over time. From my experience it has been the most common cause of fuel in the oil other than FDC bypassed.
If the FDC is not bypassed, do that first.
If the FDC is bypassed, replace the o-rings on the HH.
MY M109A3...
Your engine is 478 CID, not 465. Just a friendly FYI :-)
My money is on bad Hydraulic Head o-rings. Its not a terrible job to do. While you are there, replace the stop o-ring also others have mentioned in this post.
I totally agree. I never understood how people think a leaking flame heater can cause fuel to get in the oil. It's not even connected. I don't mean that to sound like I am putting down other people and what they think, I just don't understand how it can physically happen. I agree on the possible...
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