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Is that 10V when it is connected to the run solenoid, or with TL28 disconnected?

What in the name of holy hotcakes is this?

Ok, TL66 should not even be in the mix. It says not used in the A0 schematic, and the other pin on P201 runs to the idiot light panel, but is not shown being attached to any idiot light. If it was intended to drive a light, TL66 may have been intended to be connected to ground(TL29) to...

Oh darn... you can probably glue it... at least it works:)

On a brighter note, the wire down to TL35 at the alt probably has a good circuit:)

Oh yea there is, good catch. I didn’t see that, despite it being blatantly obvious in the pics:) Grounding that TL35 to the alternator ground could cause that, along with over-fusing CB77 at some point… Pretty easy to repair with an external wire from CB77 socket to relay socket 30 on the...

Does that white wire on the regulator have any numbers stamped on it? that might be able to give you an idea where it runs to. On the A1 they installed a LBCD to disconnect the battery, but you do not appear to have that equipment(box behind batteries with manual and remote disconnect...

Ok, you most definitely have some other hack jobs. K11 does indeed provide the power to the start button(pin 30-87 when energized) to energize the starter, and K11 must be energized to allow the starter to function. There is a backup circuit on the ground side that insures K11 stays energized...

When the oil pressure sw hits 15 psi, it deenergizes K11 which powers the regulator thru its de-energized contacts 30-87A and brings the alt online AFTER the engine is running. K11 should energize(led on) with the oil idiot light in the dash and de-energize when oil light goes out. On the A1s...

No big trucks, but I have driven smaller trucks with it. It worked OK. Search utube for “Toyota crawl control” I have a design for a fairly simple per-axle on-demands system Kicking around in my head. My goal is something that works a little like Toyota's crawl control. The stumbling block...

Yup, less if you have your own big tools and talents...

Exactly!

I am thinking you should see a check light briefly opon powerup. It Not being there is probably not a good thing...

Yep, and most of those large rotary switches use a cam or ramp to actuate a large bussbar and push it against the contacts. If I read your initial post, you thought it was off and rotated it to on, when in actuality it was on and you rotated it to off. What I think may have happened is that...

Now what you experienced may have been a latent switch, IE, the switch didn’t fully open and you got power thru it until you tried to pull any significant current…

Yea the early,A1s didn‘t have them. That remote disconnect is what the LBCD would use to disconnect the batts. So if you don‘t have that, as general said, you probably have a polarity protection device. You have the circuit board power panel and the 3126? I call these an A0.5:)

The caps are there to catch the voltage spike caused when the LBCD disconnects the batteries(load) from the alternator at full output… in my experience this is usually considered a big no-no, as that spike can fry components until the regulator can get it under control, but some bright light...

All the versions have them in the primary fuel filter/separator bowl. like the heater in the bottom of the air dryers, they come on with ignition power, but they are internally thermally regulated and do not actually provide any heat until they get cold enough. I think I read a spec on the old...

Or it wasn't cold enough to activate it when you were looking, or they called it something else… from the A1R manual.

Cold mode info: https://www.blog-teknisi.com/2020/02/cold-mode-and-no-engine-speed-on-status.html