Search results

Ok, so what problem are you still having and on what truck are you having it?

The problem is, you don’t really have a 100A alternator. It is more like a 60/40A alternator. The inlet air heater is automatically controlled by the ECU,

Ok, thats not too bad, 160-170AH maybe in a series parallel config. Thats way easier on the alt than jthe original 240AH bank… But they will still pull a bit of current when they are thirsty, 50A maybe…

Orange lights indicate low voltage, the heater and batts were probably overloading it. What are you running for batts?

The alternator doesn't come online until after you get 15PSI of oil pressure(idiot light goes out), which it most likely does after you are done cranking. this is the same circuit that disables the start circuit to keep you from engaging the starter/cranking a running engine it was probably...

Well there are I believe 12v and 24v versions of these starters, the solenoid might not have been the 24v version… Jumping across the large terminals of the aux start relay on the drivers frame should bypass everything above. If that didn't crank, and you still see 24v on the starter + and -...

Hadnt helped anyone with this issue either. Hope it works

No that sounds about right. Should be just a loud honkish whoosh. The more you push on that relief, the higher the pressure in the manifold should be, which would lessen/slow the dump whoosh because the pressure would be closer to the tire pressure... as the dump port closes, it can make some...

Which is probably why folks are opting to weld them in place:)

well you could unscrew the pressure sensor, connect a low pressure gauge and manually run a deflate with jumpers and see what pressure the relief holds the system at like I do on my manual system to monitor tire pressure…

Mine runs about 7PSI when deflating. 5.5 seems a bit low and closing in on the point where the wheel valves close… If you held a little pressure on that relief with your fingertip, you should see an increase in that deflate pressure…

Thats why it is probably easier to test pressure at the oil sample valve. It has a small AN/JIC fitting, but you could just slip a hose over it and clamp it in place with a hose clamp to get a pressure sample… it is also far easier to access than the oil pressure sensor… with no/low oil...

Your problem could also be as simple as a loose fitting or pinhole in the return line that is keeping you from pulling a vacuum and delivering air to the hand pump reservoir instead of fluid… This design always struck me as mickey mouse. They really should have just run the return line thru the...

I am not sure of the specifics of overhauling that hand pump. when you lift the cab, you send more fluid to the base end of the cylinder per inch of travel than is returned from the rod end because of the amount of fluid the rod displaces. the hand pump being sealed should go into a vacuum and...

Yea it would have destroyed itself with any running with no oil pressure. You can connect a mechanical gauge to the output port on that oil sample valve to confirm that you have decent oil pressure when you open the valve. If thats OK, move it as needed, then fix it with the correct sensor as...

Exactly, voltage isn’t good until tested under load. I feel the same way about CBs in automotive applications. Prefer fuses, but the CBs can be handy when chasing a intermittent overload issue. I kept the best in each size from my panel when I started going thru it and installed fuses…

Yea there is a couple ways to fry the fish. Loading the circuit is definitely a good thing to be able to do….

Mmmm Purty… you will need a voltmeter to see if they are passing voltage:)

“Did I mention it was loud”…:)

The test I described above would be a good next test. Disconnecting line C and applying regulated air directly to the system is another great way to look for system leaks. You said you connected a line and regulator. Did you shutoff the air supply after you pressurized the system? If the...