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All sorts of odd mods done to the dash, the engine stop is at the bottom and some random disconnected switch is in it's place. They also just slapped the new instrument cluster over the smaller dash cutout from the old cluster (hah!). On the plus side it came with a rear porch. Pic of the rear...
Note the absence of the cab lip also the home made plumbing for the air compressor line. The motor looks like it was a crate motor and if the miles are right (382 miles) it's hardly been used. She starts like a champ but plenty of fuel cleaner is needed for sure.
I can only speak from what I've seen but it varies by truck. All seem to get paint, tires, troop seats, and new top (not always a hard top upgrade) at minimum. Any of the WMO tags you should be able to google to see what was done. Most of the ones I've had got new hoses, RRAD rebuilt engines &...
I've got an interesting M109A3 that shows major signs of being not just a gasser in it's past life but an auger unit as well. I've got no year or manufacturer on it, one tag does show the truck was reconditioned by Reo Model: 13A Serial: 107000. I've found no information on this specific model...
Agreed, the Kansas programs has had the best overhauled trucks I've gotten my hands on. I had 7 sister trucks, all ready to be issued with BII and etc just waiting to be used. New batteries and fuel lines but never a problem past that.
Jeepsinker and Nofearnohope were giving me a hand today getting some 109s back on their feet. First one is alive and well. More to come.. also the perk of working with a wrecker (shade!)
Sadly yes, it was my default troubleshoot. I can feel the heat radiating off the engine with the hood open, it's unnaturally hot. I've used the temp gun to trace coolants flow and it does seem to stay hot behind the pump and cool after it so the pump is what I'm looking at next.
Yes, in fact...
I've got a cummins 250 that is acting up on me and over heating. I've flushed the system 4 times to remove the build up and checked the water pump so all feels to be in good working order. The engine will creep up to 220 if I let her idle for about 10 minutes and the radiator doesn't get above...
If you have the old style valve stems with the 90 degree extension that may be your issue if not the o-ring. All 3 of my slow leaks were due to those extensions losing their seal and they're not easy to replace. Break it down. :x
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