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Look at the -24P TMs of the two machines, you should be able to parse out which are common and which are not.

That's why it only makes sense to do all at once. If you have to yank the roof, intake, and muffler for the returns... You are 85% of the way there.

The schematics have the wire number and alphanumeric on them on all diagrams (see below). They only lack the two trailing numbers (which are the gauge of the wire, and irrelevant to the layout purpose of the schematics). For example below... the wires involved with the MT4 are 112B, 112A, 159A...

Kurt's a very talented designer and engineer, I'm an idiot who has retained more from the TMs than I've forgotten... Whole different class! 😁 A compliment to me to be listed in the same breath as him.

I don't believe that will be possible. Probably have better luck finding someone who makes something similar, and find one that isn't an exact... but might work. Kind of like that company who makes the fuel level senders... KUS? Maybe they have a comparable beast.

Unbelievable. I reached out to the manufacturer of these floats... To order (IN QUANTITY 50+) they are over $250/ea now! :poop:

One of the biggest PITA qualities of sets with open contact switches and relays is corrossion. The more times you can cycle something, the more that any small bit of corrosion can be disturbed and the part freed. As part of this exercise of diagnosing the K1, I recommend finding a high quality...

Try cycling that switch a few more times (like a dozen more times at least). Does the problem go away? It sounds like your K1 contactor is hanging up (not an uncommon thing). https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/802a-no-power-at-lugs.212936/

I've actually been spending the better part of the last half hour scouring the 'net.... seems none are available for sale at the moment. I found some for the 10K, but they are a different design (and longer). PM incoming.

And no, its a pluck and chuck part.

So now do the same thing with the double float assembly, just to confirm. Start with it unplugged, and turn the set to PRIME. Once set to prime and you hear the primary pump working, plug the aux fuel float back in. If its shorted the set should go quiet.

Even if he wanted to dance in they grey area and include the language "or equivalent", its still not right. But he doesn't, and it isn't. At one time GMG was one of the few games in town... How times have changed.

Yeah thats unacceptable. HQ is not Lister Petter OR Onan. Its probably an OK part, but I would absolutely fight it with your CC company.

The secret about GMG is they don't stock anything (or hardly anything). When they get an order for something, they place an order with a supplier and have the supplier either drop ship it, or bring it in and ship it to you. If you didnt get an Onan branded item, or a Lister Petter exact.... they...

Their site also lists a Lister Petter equivalent (751-10390). What did you receive? Onan does not make anything for this engine platform, only rebrands items from others.

I don't know this machine well, but I would say Digger is probably correct here and you have already uncovered the issue. Give Dewey a call and see what options they have for you... since they were nice enough to give you their phone number directly over the possible problem. :ROFLMAO:

The two Gates sizes, in the wild.

The 00Xs are very heavy duty machines, but these pumps will be a problem down the line (especially since their are sole source for parts...). I am glad folks can keep them going, but for my money the 80X setup is better. Those will, I am sure, be a problem down the line too.

I use Gates 1/4" safety stripe for those primary lines, with hose clamps (mainly because I dont stock that little clamp L-P uses). And I use Gates 1/8" for the return lines. Its a bit tighter than OEM, but a little oil, and you've got lines that I've yet to experience a leak with in almost 10 years.

Have you confirmed your DC alternator is putting out the correct voltage, and that your batteries are working properly (load tested by an auto parts store)? If you have failing cells, they might work well enough to start, but if your alternator is not charging them, the machine fails under use...