Search results

That's right. You can even use a AGC fuse if you choose a 125/250v version.

These are all the same size so technically any with the correct ratings will work. ABC, AGC, GBB, MDA, MDL and MDQ fuses: 1/4” x 1 1/4”

You need a 30a 125v ABC fuse.

So I guess no one looked at the document I posted that indicated that the ABC style fuse is the civilian equivalent?? You can get those anywhere.

This should give you the info you seek. https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/87/BUS_Elx_DS_2089_MIL_F_15160-273054.pdf

You may want to look at coolshirt connectors. Not too expensive and are dripproof. Coolshirts have been a game changer for us on the track.

We have almost a foot in northern Orange county. Thankfully the power is still on. Got a couple machines ready to go in case it does go out.

The sealing around the covers does degrade. Replacing the seals can make a difference in noise level.

Yea, what he said. :)

Ah, I suspect you had an MEP002 which was an air cooled set. Those are quite a bit louder than the 80X models. The ASK was an option on the air cooled sets.

I like the 831 but is is a little quirky in comparison to a constant speed set. The 701 is going to be the simpler unit hands down. BUT.. Neither of these sets are quieter than a 802. My 831 is louder inside the house than the 802 or 803.

Have you inspected the bypass valve? Is it stuck closed?

24v

Definitely not normal. What does the pump look like internally? Any scoring? Post some photos of the damage if you can.

With a 4 wire setup your generator is grounded through the main power system ground BUT you can drive a ground rod at the generator if you wish. No code against that. There is a ground terminal in the generator that you can parallel a local ground rod or you can install a ground lug on the...

The remote start controller is specific to the generator so you will need one in the generator that handles all the "switch flipping" required to get it going and sending power. Your ATS controller should send a simple two wire contact closure to your remote start controller as start and stop...

That certainly doesn't sound right. Do you have the ability to load test it at multiple values to cross check against the meter? Have you cleaned the switch? The meters on those are notorious for being inaccurate.

See if this link works any better - https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipOljmSiRGDA3m1c__1bRARTkCZxLn6RhjfqrYSWjzv5Q5dn78jweV2N3liatEqjcw?key=UktITlIyXzlBb2dmQWNKWUNlMmVTUENobm9MWGtB

Dude.. That is WAY too much to be typing with a virtual keyboard. WOW. What I have written below is not an attempt to convince you to change what you are doing. It is an explanation of why things have evolved to where they are today. A couple of things from your post above. Neutrals.. They...

Yea, I understand that. If removing the jumper makes that possible then there is a wiring fault somewhere. The chassis should remain grounded in a 4 wire system if the jumper is removed.